9788178331287 NIIR Project Consultancy Services (2024)

Perfumes & flavours with their products are part & parcel of our everyday life. The demand worldwide for perfumes is enormous & constantly on the increase. The perfume & flavour industry has become a major business. Mans search for substances which can produce new flavours & perfumes, substitute for expensive & or scarce ones, or augment & enhance existing desirable ones continuous a pace. The manufacture of perfume oils & flavouring compounds is an art & it means metering of the individual components in accordance with the formula, followed by blending for homogenization. But in all perfume & flavour house the oil formulas are among the best kept secrets & represent the knowhow. They play a major role in the success of the companies. Odors are also commonly called scents, which can refer to both pleasant and unpleasant odors. The terms fragrance and aroma are used primarily by the food and cosmetic industry to describe a pleasant odor, and are sometimes used to refer to perfumes. The odours are classified in various kinds such as floral, woody, rustic, balsamic, fruity, animal etc. There are numerous types of applications of perfumes in modern industrialized society such as perfumes used in soaps & detergents, paints, adhesives, air deodorants, cosmetics, toilet & beauty preparations, textiles, beverages, foods, medicines, and many more. The global flavour industry can be characterized as highly technical, specialized, and innovative. This industry is highly competitive and concentrated, compared to other product categories within the food and beverage market. The global flavours market is predicted to grow at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 2% per annum.
The present book deals with the new techniques & manufacturing processes with formulae of different useful and demandable perfumes and flavours. This book will definitely help not only to perfumers & flavour chemists but to all upcoming entrepreneurs, scientists, technocrats etc.

Contents

1.CLASSIFICATION OF ODOURS AND ODORANTS

2. FLOWER PERFUMES

Rose

Jasmin

Orange flower and Neroli

Violet

Acacia

Broom

Carnation

Cyclamen

Fougere (Fern)

Gardenia

Hawthorn

Heliotrope

Honeysuckle

Hyacinth

Iris

Lilac

Lily-of-the-Valley

Linden (Lime Blossom)

Magnolia

Mignonette (Reseda)

Mimosa

Narcissus

Nardo

New-mown Hay

Nicotiana

Opopanax

Orchid (Orchide)

Pansy

Peony

Phlox

Stocks

Sweet Pea

Syringa (Philadelphus)

Trefle (Clover)

Tuberose

Verbena

Wallflower

Wistaria

Ylang-Ylang

3. SOPHISTICATED PERFUMES

Introductory

Floral Bouquet Perfumes

Aldehydic Perfumes

Chypre Types

Oriental Perfumes

Green Perfumes

Dominant Note Types

4. PERFUMES FOR MEN

Eau De Cologne

Toilet Waters

Modified Colognes

Perfumes for Men

5. PERFUMES FOR MANY PURPOSES

The Uses of Perfumes

Perfumes for Soaps

Perfuming Synthetic Detergents

Perfumed Disinfectants

Perfuming the Air

Incense and Fumigants

Perfumed Candles

Paints and Polishes

Other Household Products

Perfuming Cosmetics

Adapting the Perfume to the Vehicle

Perfuming Creams

Perfuming Powders

Perfuming Lipstick and Nail Lacquer

Hair Preparation Perfumes

Perfumed Aerosols

In Pharmacy and Medicine

Industrial Perfumes

Perfumes for Textiles

Perfumed Ink and Paper

Masking Malodours

Perfume in Agriculture

Perfumed Insecticides

And Many Other Uses...

Flavours as Perfumes

6. ESSENTIAL OILS USED IN PERFUMES

Almond, Biiter

Ambergris (Tincture)

Ambrette, Seed

Angelica, Root

Angelica, Seed

Angostura

Anise, Seed

Anise, Star

Artemisia

Asarum

Asafoetida (Resinoid)

Balm

Basil, Sweet

Bay

Beeswax (Absolute)

Benzoin, Siam (Resinoid)

Benzoin, Sumatra (Resinoid)

Bergamot

Birch, Tar

Boronia (Absolute)

Broom (Absolute)

Bruyere (Absolute)

Buchu, Leaf

Cabreuva

Cade

Cajeput

Calamus

Calendula (Concrete, Absolute)

Camphor

Cananga

Caraway

Cardamom

Carrot

Cascarilla

Cassia

Cassie (Concrete, Absolute)

Castoreum

Cedarleaf

Cedarwood

Celery

Chamomile, German

Chamomile, Roman

Champaca (Concrete, Absolute)

Chenopodium

Cinnamon, Bark

Cinnamon, Leaf

Cistus (Resinoid)

Citronella

Civet (Absolute)

Clary Sage (Absolute)

Clove Bud

Clove Leaf

Copaiba Balsam

Coriander

Costus

Cravo

Cubeb

Cumin

Curcuma

Cypress

Davana

Dill

Dwarf Pine

Elemi (Resinoid)

Estragon

Eucalyptus Citriodora

Eucalyptus Dives

Eucalyptus Globulus

Eucalyptus Staigeriana

Fennel Bitter (Wild)

Fennel Sweet

Fenugreek (Resinoid)

Fir Needle

Fir Needle, Siberian

Fleabane

Flouve

Galbanum (Resinoid)

Gardenia

Garlic

Geranium

Ginger

Gingergrass

Grapefruit

Guaiacwood

Gurjun (Balsam)

Helichrysum (Concrete, Absolute)

Hop

Hyacinth (Absolute)

Hyssop

Jasmine (Absolute)

Juniper Berry

Laurel

Lavandin

Lavender

Lemon

Lemongrass

Lime

Linaloe Wood

Litsea Cubeba

Lovage

Mace

Mandarin

Marjoram

Mate (Absolute)

Mentha Citrata

Mignonette (Absolute)

Mimosa (Concrete, Absolute)

Monard

Musk (Tincture)

Mustard

Myrrh (Resinoid)

Myrtle

Narcissus (Concrete, Absolute)

Nepeta

Neroli

Niaouli

Nutmeg

Oakmoss (Resinoid, Absolute)

Olibanum (Resinoid)

Onion

Opopanax (Resinoid)

Orange Bitter

Orange Flowers (Concrete, Absolute)

Orange Sweet

Oregano

Orris

Osmanthus (Concrete, Absolute)

Palmarosa

Parsley

Parsnip

Patchouli

Pennyroyal

Pepper, Black

Peppermint, Arvensis

Peppermint, Piperita

Perilla

Peru Balsam

Petitgrain

Pimento

Pine

Pine Needle

Rose (Concrete, Absolute)

Rosemary

Rosewood

Rue

Saffron

Sage

Sandalwood

Sarsaparilla

Sassafras

Savin

Savory

Silver Fir Needle

Spearmint

Spike Lavender

Spruce

Storax (Resinoid)

Tagetes

Tamarind

Tansy

Thyme

Tobacco (Absolute)

Tolu Balsam (Resinoid)

Tonka Beans (Absolute)

Treemoss (Resinoid, Absolute)

Tuberose (Concrete, Absolute)

Turpentine (Rectified)

Valerian

Vanilla (Resinoid)

Vassoura

Verbena

Vetiver

Violet (Concrete, Absolute)

Wallflower

Wintergreen

Wormseed

Wormwood

Woodruff

Ylang Ylang

7. SYNTHETIC ODORANTS

Introduction

Materials Employed as Odorants

8. CHEMICALS USED IN FLAVOURS AND PERFUMES

Acetaldehyde

Acetate C-8

Acetate C-9

Acetate C-10

Acetate C-11

Acetate C-12

Acetatepa

Acetic Glacial (Pure)

Acetophenone

Alcohol C-7

Alcohol C-8

Alcohol C-9

Alcohol C-10

Alcohol C-11 (Undecylenic)

Alcohol C-11 (Undecylic)

Alcohol C-12

Alcohol C-16

Aldehyde C-7

Aldehyde C-8

Aldehyde C-9

Aldehyde C-10

Aldehyde C-11 (Undecylenic)

Aldehyde C-11 (Undecylic)

Aldehyde C-12 (Lauric)

Aldehyde C-12 (Mna)

Aldehyde C-14 (Myristic)

Aldehyde C-14 (Pure)

Aldehyde C-16 (Pure)

Aldehyde C-18

Aldehyde C-19

Aldehyde C-20

Allyl Sulfide

Ambrettolide

Amyl Benzoate

Amyl Butyrate

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

Amyl Phenyl Acetate

Amyl Propionate

Anethole

Angelic Acid

Anisic Acid

Anisic Alcohol

Anisic Aldehyde

Anisole

Anisyl Acetate

Anisyl Formate

Anthranilic Acid

Benzaldehyde

Benzoic Acid

Benzyl Acetate

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Cinnamate

Benzyl Formate

Benzyl Phenyl Acetate

Benzyl Propionate

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzyl Valerianate

Bornyl Acetate

Bromo Styrol

Butyl Benzoate

Butyric Acid

Butyric Aldehyde

Cadinene

Capric Acid

Caproic Acid

Caprylic Acid

Carvacrol

Caryophyllene

Cedrene

Cedryl Acetate

Cinnamic Acid

Cinnamic Aldehyde

Cinnamyl Acetate

Cinnamyl Benzoate

Cinnamyl Cinnamate

Cinnamyl Formate

Citral

Citric Acid

Citronellal

Citronellyl Acetate

Citronellyl Butyrate

Citronellyl Formate

Citronellyl Propionate

Citronellyl Valerianate

Coumarin

Coumarin Acid

P-cresyl Acetate

P-cresyl Phenyl Acetate

Cuminic Aldehyde

Cymol

Dimethyl Benzyl Carbinyl Acet Ate

Dimethyl Octanol

Dimethyl Phenyl Carbinyl Acetate

Diphenyl Oxide

Epoxy Linalyl Acetate

Ethyl Acetoacetate

Ethyl Alcohol

Ethyl Anisate

Ethyl Anthranilate

Ethyl Benzoate

Ethyl Caproate

Ethyl Cinnamate

Ethyl Formate

Ethyl Hexyl Carbinyl Acetate

Ethyl Linalyl Acetate

Ethyl Phenyl Acetate

Ethyl Salicylate

Eugenol

Eugenol Acetate

Fenchene

Formic Acid

Fumaric Acid

Geraniol

Geranyl Acetate

Geranyl Butyrate

Geranyl Caproate

Geranyl Phenyl Acetate

Geranyl Propionate

Heliotropin

Heptane

Heptanoic Acid

Indole

Ionone

Isoamyl Acetate

Isoamyl Salicylate

Isobutyl Acetate

Isobutyl Benzoate

Isobutyl Cinnamate

Isobutyl Phenyl Acetate

Isobutyl Quinoline

Isobutyl Salicylate

Isopropyl Anthranilate

Lactic Acid

Lauric Acid

Linalool

Llnalyl Acetate

Linalyl Butyrate

Linalyl Cinnamate

Linalyl Formate

Llnalyl Propionate

Linalyl Valerianate

Malic Acid

Menthol

Menthone

Menthyl Acetate

P-methoxy Phenylbutyl Acetate

Methyl Alcohol

Methyl Anisate

Methyl Anthran1late

Methyl Benzoate

Methyl Butyrate

Methyl Cinnamate

Methyl Eugenol

Methyl Hexyl Carbinyl Acetate

Methyl Phenyl Acetate

Methyl Salicylate

Musk Ambrette

Musk Ketone

Musk Xylol

Myrcene

Nerol

Nerolin

Neryl Acetate

Nonoic Acid

γ-octa Lactone

Octylene

Ocymene

Oxalic Acid

Phenyl Acetaldehyde

Phenyl Acetic Acid

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Phenyl Ethyl Anthranilate

Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate

Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate

Phenyl Ethyl Formate

Phenyl Ethyl Phenyl Acetate

Phenyl Ethyl Propionate

Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate

Phenyl Propyl Acetate

Phenyl Propyl Alcohol

Phenyl Propyl Butyrate

Phenyl Propyl Formate

Pinene

Propionic Acid

Propyl Alcohol

Propyl Formate

Pulegone

Pyroligneous Acid

Rhodinol

Rhodinyl Acetate

Rhodinyl Formate

Sabinene

Safrole

Salicylic Acid

Santalene

Santalol

Santalyl Acetate

Santene

Sebacic Acid

Skatole

Styralyl Acetate

Styrol

Succinic Acid

Tannic Acid

Tartaric Acid

Terpineol

Terpinyl Acetate

Terpinyl Formate

Terpinyl Propionate

Thymol

Tiglic Acid

Trichloromethylphenyl Carbinyl Acetate

Umbelliferone

Undecylenic Acid

Valerianic Acid

Vanillin

Vetiver Acetate

Yara Yara

9. AROMATIC CHEMICALS USED IN FLAVOUR AND PERFUME COMPOUNDS

Acetophenone

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

Amyl Salicylate

Anisic Aldehyde

Benzaldehyde

Benzyl Acetate

Benzyl Alcohol

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Cinnamate

Benzylidene Acetone

Benzyl Salicylate

Borneol

Bornyl Acetate

Cinnamic Acid

Cinnamic Alcohol

Cinnamic Aldehyde

Citral

Citronellal

Citronellol

Coumarin

P-cresyl Acetate

P-cresyl Methyl Ether

Cyclamen Aldehyde

Diphenyl Ketone

Diphenyl Oxide

Eugenol

Geraniol

Heliotropin

Hydroxycitronellal

Indole

Ionone

Linalool

Linalyl Acetate

Methyl Anthranilate

Methyl Heptyne Carbonate

P-methyl Quinoline

Methyl Salicylate

Musk Ambrette

Musk Ketone

Musk Xylene

Nerol

γ-nonalactone

Phenylacetaldehyde

Phenyl Acetic Acid

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Rose Crystals

Rose Oxide

Terpineol

γ-undelactone

Vanillin

10. NATURAL ODOURS OF AROMATIC CHEMICALS

Balsamic

Citrus

Fatty

Flowery

Grassy

Green-Floral

Harsh-Pungent

Herb-Like

Leaf-Green

Musky

Odorless-Faint

Waxy

Woody

Acacia

Bergamot

Carnation

Cassia

Chrysanthemum

Clove

Clover

Cyclamen

Fern

Frangipani

Gardenia

Geranium

Hawthorn

Heliotrope

Honeysuckle

Hyacinth

Iris

Jasmine

Jonquil

Lavender

Lilac

Lily of the Valley

Linden

Magnolia

Mignonette

Mimosa

Moon Flower

Morning Glory

Moss

Musk

Narcissus

Orange Blossom

Orchid

Patchouli

Pine (Needles)

Rose

Sweet Pea

Syringa

Tobacco

Trefle

Tuberose

Verbena

Violet

Wallflower

Wisteria

Wintergreen

Ylang Ylang

Seaweed (Algae)

Adonis

Forsythia

Fringe Tree

Fixatives for Perfumes

Ambergris

11. BASIC FLAVOURING MATERIALS

Introduction

Natural Flavors Simulated with Synthetic

Chemicals

FRUITY

Fruity

FRESH FRUIT

Apple

Apricot

Barberry

Bilberry

Blackberry

Black Currant

Blueberry

Cherry (Sweet and Sour)

Cranberry

Date

Gooseberry

Grape

Grape Fruit

Hop

Huckleberry

Lemon

Lime

Loganberry

Mandarin

Melon (Watermelon)

Mulberry

Orange

Peach (Freestone, Clin Gstone, Nectarine)

Pear

Plum (Prunes)

Pomegrana Te

Quince

Raspberry

Red Currant

Strawberry

TROPICAL FRUITS

Avocado

Banana

Cherimoya

Coconut

Guava

Mango

Papaya

Pineapple (Ananas)

DRY FRUITS

Almond, Bitter

Brazil Nut (Cream Nut, Butter Nut, Pura Nut, Shenut)

Cashew Nut

Chestnut

Hazelnut (Cobnuts, Filbert)

Macadamia (Queensland Nut)

Peanut

Pecan

Pistachio

Walnut

NATURALLY SWEET PRODUCTS

Honey

Licorice

Maple

Vanilla Beans

Woodruff

DAILY BEVERAGES

Cocoa-chocolate

Coffee

Kola

Tea

Alcoholic Beverages

Beer

Bitters

Cognac

Fermented Drinks

Fortified Beverages

Light or Still

Rum

Sparkling Wines

Vermouth

Whiskey

DAIRY PRODUCTS

Butter

Cheese

Milk

Yogurt

CULINARY ADDITIVES

Capsicum

Cucumber

Garlic

Hickory

Mustard

Onion

Paprika

Saffron

Smoke

Tarragon

Tomato

Turmeric

12. AROMATIC CHEMICALS USED IN FLAVOUR COMPOUNDING

Aldehyde C-18

Anethole

Anisaldehyde

Benzaldehyde

Benzyl Butyrate

Bourbonal

Carvone

Cinnamic Aldehyde

Cinnamyl Alcohol

Cinnamyl Butyrate

Cinnamyl Propionate

Citral

Citronellol

Coumarin

Cumic Aldehyde

Decyl Acetate

N-decyl Alcohol

N-decyl Aldehyde

Dodecyl Aldehyde

Ethyl Acetate

Ethyl Acetoacetate

Ethyl Benzoate

Ethyl Butyrate

Ethyl Malonate

Ethyl Myristate

Ethyl Oenanthate

Ethyl Pelargonate

Ethyl Propionate

Ethyl Sebacate

Ethyl Valerate

Eugenol

Geraniol

Geranyl Acetate

Geranyl N-butyrate

Heliotropin

Heptylic Aldehyde

Hydrocinnamic Aldehyde

Hydroxycitronellal

Ionone

Irone

Isoamyl Acetate

Isoamyl Butyrate

Isoamyl Valerate

Isobutyl Acetate

Isobutyl Butyrate

Isoeugenol

Linalool

Linalyl Acetate

Linalyl Butyrate

Menthol

Methyl Anthranilate

Methyl M-anthranilate

Methyl Eugenol

Methyl Heptyne Carbonate

Methyl Isoeugenol

Methylnonyl Acetaldehyde

Methyl Phenyl Acetate

Methyl Phenyl Glycidate

β-naphthol Isobutyl

β-naphthyl Ethyl Ether

Nerol

N-nonyl Alcohol

Nonyl Aldehyde

Octyl Acetate

N-octyl Alcohol

N-octyl Aldehyde

Octyl Butyrate

Phenyl Ethyl Acetate

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Phenyl Ethyl Propionate

Rhodinol

Rhodinyl Acetate

Rhodinyl Butyrate

α-terpineol

Terpinyl Propionate

P-toluyl Aldehyde

N-undelactone

Undecylenic Aldehyde

Vanillin

13. SOLVENTS

Introduction

Solvents commonly used for flavors and perfumes

Acetone

Benzene

Corn Oil

Cottonseed Oil

Cyclohexane

Dlethyl Phthalate

Ethyl Acetate

Ethyl Alcohol

Glycerol

Glyceryl Triacetate

N-hexane

Isopropyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 80

Propylene Glycol

Soybean Oil

Water, Distilled

14. COLORANTS FOR FLAVOURS AND PERFUMES NATURAL COLORS

Alkanet

Annatto

β-Apo-8' -carotenal

Beet

Buckthorn

Campeachy

Canthaxanthin

Caramel

Catechu

Chlorophyll

Cochineal

Cud Bear

Curcuma

Erythrosine

Guanine

Huckleberry

Indigotin

Kino

Mallow Flowers

Paprika

Pernambuco

Pokeberry

Safflower

Saffron

Sandalwood

Tartrazine

Titanium Dioxide

Turmeric

Ultramarine

Yellowwood

Zinc Oxide

Colors of Common Flavors and Perfumes

15. STABILIZERS

Agar-agar

Arabic Gum

Bean Gums, Locust

Carrageen

Guar Gum

Karaya Gum

Pectin

Tragacanth Gum

16. FORMULATION OF PERFUMES

Acacia

Acetic Acid, Tincture

Alpestrine, Perfume

Amber, Base

Amber, Concrete (Fixative)

Amber, Liquid (Chypre Basis)

Ambergris, Perfume Imitation No. 1

Ambergris, Perfume Imitation No. 2

Ambergris, Tincture

Bergammonia, Disinfectant

Bergamot, Essence (Natural) No. 1

Bergamot, Essence (Natural) No. 2

Bouquet, No. 1 (For Soap)

Bouquet, No. 2 (For Soap)

Bouvardia

Calamus, Imitation No. 1

Calamus, Imitation No. 2

Camphor, Tincture

Cananga (For Soap)

Capsicum

Carnation, Imitation No. 1

Carnation, Imitation No. 2

Carnation (For Soap)

Carnation, Pink (Perfume)

Castor, Tincture No. 1

Castor, Tincture No. 2

Cedrela, Wood Type

Citronella (For Soap)

Coconut, Extract (Natural)

Coconut, Paste

Cologne

Color Base Standard Formula No. 1

Color Base Standard Formula No. 2

Color Mixture

Colors (Natural Dyes)

Cover Odor, Perfume No. 1

Cover Odor, Perfume No. 2

Cover Odor, Perfume No. 3

Cyclamen, Base (Synthetic)

Cyclamen (for Soap)

Deodorant for Cream

Deodorant for Vessels

Deodorant for Water

Deodorants (Masking Agent)

Deodorants (Masking Agent) for Heavy Odors

Deodorants (Masking Agent) Grassy Odors

Diacetyl, Tincture

Eau De Cologne

Eau De Cologne (for Soap)

Eglantine (Wild Rose)

Esters, General Base

Fenugreek, Tincture

Fern (for Soap)

Floral Fragrance (for Soap)

Floral, Imitation No. 1

Floral, Imitation No. 2

Fougere

Fougere, Base (Fern)

Frangipanni, Imitation No. 1

(Acutifolia, Alba, Rubra)

Frangipanni, Imitation No. 2

Frangipanni, Imitation No. 3

Frangipanni, Imitation No. 4

Freshener, Perfume

Gardenia, Base

Geranium

Geranium, Imitation (for Soap)

Geranium, Synthetic

Gingergrass (for Soap)

Girofl, Imitation No. 1

Girofl, Imitation No. 2

Halo, Sea Salt Odor

Hawthorn

Hawthorn (for Soap)

Heliotrope (for Soap)

Herbal Base, Gold Water

Hip, Extract (Natural)

Hip, Imitation No. 1

Honey, Synthetic (for Perfume)

Honeysuckle

Hyacinth

Ionone

Iris

Iris, Synthetic

Jasmine (for Brilliantine)

Jasmine Grandiflora

Jasmine, Imitation No. 1

Jasmine, Imitation No. 2

Jasmine, Imitation No. 3 (for Soap)

Jasmine, Infusion

Jasmine, Synthetic No. 1

Jasmine, Synthetic No. 2

Jasmine, Synthetic No. 3

Jasmine, Synthetic No. 4

Jasmine, Synthetic No. 5

Jasmine, Synthetic No. 6

Jonquil (Daffodil), Imitation

Jonquil (Daffodil), Synthetic

Lavender, Essence (Natural)

Lavender, Imitation No. 1

Lavender, Imitation No. 2

Lavender, Imitation No. 3

Lavender, Imitation No. 4

Lavender, Imitation No. 5

Lavender, Imitation No. 6

Lavender, Imitation No. 7

Lavender, Imitation No. 8

Lavender, Imitation No. 9

Lavender, Imitation No. 10

Lavender, Imitation No. 11

Lavender, Imitation No. 12 (for Soap)

Lavender, Sweet

Leather

Lilac, Imitation No. 1

Lilac, Imitation No. 2

Lilac, Imitation No. 3

Lilac, Imitation No. 4

Lilac, Imitation No. 5

Lilac, Imitation No. 6

Lilac, Imitation No. 7

Lilac, Imitation No. 8

Lilac, Imitation No. 9 (for Soap)

Lilac, Synthetic No. 1 (for Soap)

Lilac, Synthetic No. 2 (for Soap)

Lily, Base

Magnolia

Mignonette (Reseda)

Mimosa, Imitation

Mimosa, Synthetic

Moss

Muguet (Lily of the Valley), Imitation No. 1

Muguet (Lily of the Valley), Imitation No. 2

Muguet (Lily of the Valley), Imitation No. 3

(For Soap)

Muguet (Lily of The Valley), Synthetic No. 1

Muguet (Lily of the Valley), Synthetic No. 2

Musk

Musk, Imitation No. 1 (for Powder)

Musk, Imitation No. 2 (for Soap)

Narcissus, Imitation No. 1 (for Powder)

Narcissus, Imitation No. 2 (for Cologne)

Narcissus, Imitation No. 3 (for Cologne)

Narcissus, Imitation No. 4 Poeticus (for Cologne)

Narcissus, Imitation No. 5 (for Soap)

Narcissus, Synthetic No. 1

Narcissus, Synthetic No. 2

Narcissus, Synthetic No. 3

Narcissus, Synthetic No. 4

Neroli, Imitation No. 1

Neroli, Imitation No. 2

Neroli, Imitation No. 3

Neroli, Imitation No. 4 (for Soap)

Nerolin

Neutroleum, Deodorizing Perfume

New Mown Hay (Foin Coupe), Imitation No. 1

New Mown Hay (Fon Coupe), Imitation No. 2

New Mown Hay (Foin Coupe), Imitation No. 3

Opoponax, Imitation No. 1

Opoponax, Imitation No. 2

Opoponax, Imitation No. 3

Opoponax, Imitation No. 4 (for Soap)

Orange Blosoom, Bouquet (for Soap)

Orange Flower, Imitation No. 1

Orange Flower, Imitation No. 2

Orange Flower, Imitation No. 3

Orange Flower, Synthetic No. 4

Orchid, Imitation

Orris Root, Extract (Natural)

Orris Root, Florentine

Orris Root, Synthetic

Pathouli, Imitation No. 1 (for Soap)

Pathouli, Imitation No. 2 (Ffor Toilet Powder)

Pine, Bouquet (for Soap)

Pine, Imitation No. 1

Pine, Imitation No. 2

Pine Needle

Pine Needle, Siberian, Imitation No. 1

Pine Needle, Siberian, Imitation No. 2

Pine Needle, Siberian, Imitation No. 3

Rose, Bulgarian Type

Rose, For Cream

Rose, For Face Powder No. 1

Rose, For Face Powder No. 2

Rose, Imitation No. 1

Rose, Imitation No. 2

Rose, Imitation No. 3

Rose, Imitation No. 4

Rose, Imitation No. 5 (for Cosmetic Cream)

Rose, Imitation No. 6 (for Soap)

Rose, Imitation No. 7

Rose, Imitation No. 8

Rose, Imitation No. 9 (for Perfume)

Rose, Imitation No. 10

Rose, Imitation No. 11

Rose, Imitation No. 12

Rose, Imitation, No. 13

Rose, Imitation No. 14

Rose, Imitation No. 15

Rose, Imitation No. 16

Rose, Imitation No. 17

Rose, Imitation No. 18

Rose, Imitation No. 19

Rose, Imitation No. 20

Rose Macedone

Rose, Moss

Rose, Oil, Synthetic

Rose, Oriental

Rose Otto

Rose, Synthetic No. 1 (General Base for Rose Odor)

Rose, Synthetic No. 2

Rose, Synthetic No. 3

Rose, Synthetic No. 4 (Milk-Like Compound)

Rose, White

Sandalwood Santal, (for Soap)

Sassafras, for Soap No. 1

Sassafras, for Soap No. 2

Sebacic Acid, Stabilizer for Perfume

Soap, Perfume No. 1

Soap, Perfume No. 2

Soap, Perfume No. 3

Soap, Perfume No. 4

Soap, Perfume No. 5

Sweet Pea, Blossom

Syringa, Imitation No. 1

Syringa, Imitation No. 2

Tobacoo for Snuff

Tobacco Perfumes, General Basic Material No. 1

Tobacco Perfumes, General Basic Material No. 2

Tobacco, Strong Odor

Thefl (Clover, Trefoil) (for Soap)

Tuberose, Imitation (for Soap)

Tuberrose, Synthetic

Uny Cologne, Perfume Base

Vaporous Perfume, Imitation No. 1

Vaporous Perfume, Imitation No. 2

Vaporous Perfume, Imitation No. 3

Violet, For Face Powder

Violet, Imitation No. 1

Violet, Imitation No. 2

Violet, Imitation No. 3

Violet, Imitation No. 4 (for Soap)

Violet, Imitation No. 5 (for Soap)

Violet, Imitation No. 6

Violet Leaf

Violet, Synthetic

Wall Flower

Winter Green, Imitation (for Soap)

Ylang Ylang, Imitation No. 1

Ylang Ylang, Imitation No. 2

Ylang Ylang, Imitation No. 3

Ylang Ylang, Imitation No. 4

Ylang Ylang, Imitation No. 5

Ylang Ylang, Synthetic No. 1

Ylang Ylang, Synthetic No. 2

17. FORMULATIONS OF FLAVOURS

General Method for the Extraction of Natural Flavors from Fresh or Dry Fruits

Neutral Esters Mixture Base

Abbey, Benedictine Type

Absinthe

Advocaat (Advokaat)

Allspice, Oil

Almond, Bitter

Almond, Bitter Essence (Natural)

Almond, Bitter (for Soap)

Almond, Bitter Imitation

Almond, Bitter No. 1

Almond, Bitter No. 2

Almond, Bitter No. 3

Almond, Bitter No. 4

Almond, Bitter No. 5

Almond, Bitter No. 6

Almond, Bitter No. 7

Almond, Bitter, Synthetic No. 1

Almond, Bitter, Synthetic No. 2

Almond, Bitter, Synthetic No. 3

Almond, Bitter Synthetic No. 4

Almond, Imitation

Almond, Milk (Orzata)

Almond, Peach

Angelic, Tincture

Angostura, Bitter

Anise Base

Aniseed

Anisette, Oil No. 1

Anisette, Oil No. 2

Apple, Base

Apple, Essence (Natural) No. 1

Apple, Essence (Natural) No. 2

Apple, Essence (Natural) No. 3

Apple, Essence (Natural) No. 4

Apple, Essence (Natural) No. 5

Apple, Imitation No. 1

Apple, Imitation No. 2

Apple, Imitation No. 3

Apple, Imitation No. 4

Apple, Synthetic No. 1

Apple, Synthetic No. 2

Apple, Synthetic No. 3

Apple, Synthetic No. 4

Apple, Synthetic No. 5

Apple, Synthetic No. 6

Appled, Synthetic No. 7

Apple, Synthetic No. 8

Apple, Synthetic No. 9

Apple, Synthetic No. 10

Apple, Synthetic No. 11

Apple, Synthetic No. 12

Apple, Synthetic No. 13

Apple, Synthetic No. 14

Apricot, Essence (Natural) No. 1

Apricot, Essence (Natural) No. 2

Apricot, Imitation No. 1

Apricot, Imitation No. 2

Apricot, Imitation No. 3

Apricot, Imitation No. 4

Apricot, Imitation No. 5

Apricot, Synthetic No. 1

Apricot, Synthetic No. 2

Apricot, Synthetic No. 3

Apricot, Synthetic No. 4

Apricot, Synthetic No. 5

Aubepine (Hawthorn)

Avocado

Banana, Essence (Natural) No. 1

Banana, Essence (Natural) No. 2

Banana, Imitation No. 1

Banana, Imitation No. 2

Banana, Imitation No. 3

Banana, Imitation No. 4

Banana, Imitation No. 5

Banana, Synthetic No. 1

Banana, Synthetic No. 2

Banana, Synthetic No. 3

Banana, Synthetic No. 4

Banana, Synthetic No. 5

Barbecue

Barbecue Sauce, Hunt Type

Barberry, Essence (Natural)

Benedictine No. 1

Benedictine No. 2

Bergamot, Flavor

Bilberry, Essence (Natural) No. 1

Bilberry, Essence (Natural) No. 2, Red

Bilberry, Essence (Natural) No. 3 Scandinavian Type

Bilberry, Imitation No. 1

Bilberry, Imitation No. 2

Bilberry, Imitation No. 3

Bitter No. 1, Unicum

Bitter No. 2, Spanish

Bitter No. 3, Stomach

Blackberry, Essence (Natural)

Blackberry, Imitation No. 1

Blackberry, Imitation No. 2

Blackberry, Imitation No. 3

Blackberry, Synthetic

Black Cherry

Black Currant

Black Currant, Synthetic

Black Pepper, Imitation No. 1

Black Pepper, Imitation No. 2

Blueberry, Essence (Natural)

Brandy (Cognac) No. 1

Brandy (Cognac) No. 2

Bread, Fresh Roasted Flavor

Butter, Flavor, Imitation No. 1

Butter, Flavor, Imitation No. 2

Butter, Flavor, Imitation No. 3

Butter, Flavor, Imitation No. 4

Butter, Flavor, Imitation No. 5

Butter, Flavor, Imitation No. 6

Butter, Flavor, Synthetic

Butter, Rum

Butterscotch, Imitation No. 1

Butterscotch, Imitation No. 2

Butterscotch, Imitation No. 3

Butterscotch, Imitation No. 4

Butterscotch, Imitation No. 5

Butterscotch, Imitation No. 6

Cacao, Extract (Natural) No. 1, Colorless

Cacao, Extract (Natural) No. 2, Brown

Cacao, Imitation

Cacao, Synthetic

Cake, Flavor No. 1

Cake, Flavor No. 2

Caper, Extract (Natural)

Capsicum, Extract (Natural)

Caramel, Flavor No. 1

Caramel, Flavor No. 2

Caraway, Imitation No. 1

Caraway, Imitation No. 2

Caraway, Imitation No. 3

Caraway, Imitation No. 4

Caraway, Imitation No. 5

Cardamom, Imitation No. 1

Cardamom, Imitation No. 2

Carnation, Flavor

Carrot, Extract (Natural)

Cascarilla, Tincture

Cashew, Extract (Natural)

Cassia, Imitation No. 1

Cassia, Imitation No. 2

Cassia, Imitation No. 3

Cassia, Imitation No. 4

Cassia, Imitation No. 5

Cassia, Imitation No. 6

Cassia, Imitation No. 7

Cassia, Imitation No. 8

Cassia, Imitation No. 9

Champagne, Cedar, Imitation

Champagne, Flavor

Chartreuse

Chartreuse (Liqueur) No. 1

Chartreuse (Liqueur) No. 2

Cheese, Blue, Synthetic No. 1

Cheese, Blue, Synthetic No. 2

Cheese Roquefort Type

Cheese, Synthetic

Cherimoya, Synthetic

Cherry Black, Essence (Natural)

Cherry Blossom, No. 1

Cherry Blossom No. 2

Cherry Brandy, No. 1

Cherry Brandy, No. 2

Cherry Brandy, Synthetic

Cherry, Imitation No. 1

Cherry, Imitation No. 2

Cherry, Imitation No. 3

Cherry, Imitation No. 4

Cherry, Imitation No. 5

Cherry, Imitation No. 6

Cherry, Imitation No. 7

Cherry, Imitation No. 8

Cherry, Imitation No. 9

Cherry, Imitation No. 10

Cherry, Imitation No. 11

Cherry, Imitation No. 12

Cherry, Imitation No. 13

Cherry, Imitation No. 14

Cherry, Imitation No. 15

Cherry, Imitation No. 16

Cherry, Imitation No. 17

Cherry Red Essence (Natural) Agri

Cherry, Synthetic No. 1

Cherry, Synthetic No. 2

Cherry, Synthetic No. 3

Cherry, Synthetic No. 4

Cherry, Synthetic No. 5

Cherry, Synthetic No. 6

Cherry, Synthetic No. 7

Cherry, Synthetic No. 8

Cherry, Synthetic No. 9

Cherry Wild, Agriot, Synthetic

Chervil, Essence (Natural)

Chocolate, Essence (For Praline Liqueur)

Chocolate, Falvor (Natural)

Chocolate, Flavor, Synthetic

Chocolate, Hardener

Chypre, Base for Bouquet (Aroma of Wine and Liquor)

Cinnamon, Imitation

Citrus Fruits, Extract from Peels

Clove

Coca, Flavor

Cocoa, Essence (Natural)

Coffee, Extract (Natural) No. 1, Brown

Coffee, Extract (Natural) No. 2, Colorless

Coffee, Extract (Natural) No. 3 Brown

Coffee, Extract (Natural) No. 4, Colorless

Coffee, Imitation No. 1

Coffee, Imitation No. 2

Coffee, Imitation No. 3

Coffee, Synthetic

Cognac, Base, Synthetic

Cognac, Imitation No. 1

Cognac, Imitation No. 2

Cognac, Imitation No. 3

Cognac, Imitation No. 4

Cognac, Imitation No. 5

Cognac, Imitation No. 5

Cognac, Imitation No. 6

Cognac, Imitation No. 7

Cola, Imitation No. 1 (Syrup)

Cola, Imitation No. 2 (Syrup)

Cola, Tincture

Coriander, Imitation No. 1

Coriander, Imitation No. 2

Cranberry

Cranberry, Synthetic

Cream Paste

Crystal Beverages

Cucumber, Extract (Natural)

Cucumber Milk (for Cosmetics)

Culinary, Extract (Natural)

Curacao, Imitation No. 1, Liquor Base

Curacao, Imitation No. 2, Liquor Base

Curacao, Imitation No. 3, Liquor Base

Curacao, Imitation No. 4 Liquor Base

Curacao, Imitation No. 5, Liquor Base

Curacao, Imitation No. 6

Currant, Extract (Natural) No. 1

Currant, Extract (Natural) No. 2

Currant, Imitation No. 1

Currant, Imitation No. 2

Currant, Imitation No. 3

Currant, Imitation No. 4

Currant, Imitation No. 5

Currant, Imitation No. 6

Currant, Synthetic No. 1

Currant, Synthetic No. 2

Currant, Synthetic No. 3

Currant, Synthetic No 4

Current, Synthetic No. 5

Currant, Synthetic No. 6

Date, Extract (Natural)

Date, Imitation No. 1

Date, Imitation No. 2

Date, Synthetic

Fernet Branca Essence

Fig, Essence (Natural)

Fondant Orgeat Praline

Fortified Extracts from Vegetables

Fruit Extract, Natural Flavor

Fruit Soda

Fungi Extract (Natural)

Garlic, Extract (Natural)

Gin, Imitation

Ginger, Essence (Natural)

Ginger, Extract (Natural), Gingerine

Ginger, Imitation No. 1

Ginger, Imitation No. 2

Ginger, Imitation No. 3

Ginger, Imitation No. 4

Ginger, Imitation No. 5

Gingergrass (Palmarosa)

Girofl (Clove), Tincture

Glace Cake Mix

Gooseberry, Extract (Natural)

Gooseberry, Imitation No. 1

Gooseberry, Imitation No. 2

Gooseberry, Imitation No. 3

Gooseberry, Imitation No. 4

Gooseberry, Imitation No. 5

Gooseberry, Synthetic No. 1

Gooseberry, Synthetic No. 2

Gooseberry, Synthetic No. 3

Gooseberry, Synthetic No. 4

Grape, Extract (Natural) No. 1

Grape, Extract (Natural) No. 2

Grape, Imitation No. 1

Grape, Imitation No. 2

Grape, Synthetic No. 1

Grape, Synthetic No. 2

Grape, Synthetic No. 3

Grape, Synthetic No. 4

Grape, Synthetic No. 5

Grape, Synthetic No. 6

Grape, Synthetic No. 7

Grape, Synthetic No. 8

Grape, Synthetic No. 9

Grapefruit, Synthetic

Green Gage, Extract (Natural)

Green Gage, Imitation

Grenadine

Guava, Extract (Natural)

Ham, Baked Glaze

Hazelnut, Extract (Natural)

Herbal Cream (Celery or any Other Herb)

Honey, Imitation No. 1

Honey, Imitation No. 2

Honey, Imitation No. 3

Honey, Imitation No. 4

Honey, Imitation No. 5

Honey, Imitation No. 6

Honey, Imitation No. 7

Honey, Synthetic No. 1

Honey, Synthetic No. 2 (for Perfumes)

Honey, Synthetic No. 3 (for Perfumes)

Honey, Synthetic No. 4

Honey, Synthetic No. 5

Hop, Extract (Natural)

Hop, Imitation

Hop, Synthetic No. 1

Hop, Synthetic No. 2

Hop, Synthetic No. 3

Huckleberry, Synthetic No. 1

Huckleberry, Synthetic No. 2

Juices, General

Kernel (Nut), General

Ketchup (Catsup), Mushroom Flavor

Ketchup (Catsup), Spice

Ketchup (Catsup), Tomato Flavor

Kummel

Lavender, Flavor

Lemon, Extract (Natural)

Lemon, Imitation No. 1

Lemon, Imitation No. 2

Lemon, Imitation No. 3

Lemon, Imitation No. 4

Lemon, Imitation No. 5

Lemon, Imitation No. 6

Lemon, Imitation No. 7

Lemon, Imitation No. 8

Lemon, Imitation No. 9

Lemon, Imitation No. 10

Lemon, Imitation No. 11

Lemon, Imitation No. 12

Lemon, Imitation No. 13

Lemon, Imitation No. 14

Lemon, Imitation No. 15

Lemon, Imitation No. 16

Lemon, Powdered (Concentrate)

Lemon, Synthetic No. 1

Lemon, Synthetic No. 2

Lemon, Synthetic No. 3

Licorice, Root, Extract (Natural)

Lime, Extract (Natural)

Lime, Imitation

Lime, Synthetic No. 1

Lime, Synthetic No. 2

Lime, Synthetic No. 3

Lime, Synthetic No. 4

Lime, Synthetic No. 5

Malt, Extract (Natural)

Malt, Imitation No. 1

Malt, Imitation No. 2

Mandarin, Imitation No. 1

Mandarin, Imitation No. 2

Mandarin, Imitation No. 3

Mandarin, Imitation No. 4

Mandarin, Imitation No. 5

Mandarin, Imitation No. 6

Mandarin, Imitation No. 7

Mandarin, Imitation No. 8

Mandarin, Imitation No. 9

Mandarin, Synthetic No. 1

Mango, Extract (Natural)

Mango, Imitation

Maple

Maple, Flavormaple, Syrup

Maraschino, Imitation No. 1

Maraschino, Imitation No. 2

Maraschino, Imitation No. 3

Maraschino, Imitation No. 4

Marshmallow

Mayonnaise

Mayonnaise, Real

Mayonnaise, Spice

Meat, Flavor

Melon, Extract (Natural)

Melon, Imitation No. 1

Melon, Imitation No. 2

Melon, Imitation No. 3

Melon, Synthetic No. 1

Melon, Synthetic No. 2

Melon, Synthetic No. 3

Melon, Synthetic No. 4

Melon, Synthetic No. 5

Melon, Synthetic No. 6

Melon, Synthetic No. 7

Melon, Synthetic No. 8

Mentha, Cream

Milk, Caramel

Mint

Mirabelle

Mirabelle (Plum), Extract (Natural)

Mirabelle (Plum), Imitation

Mirabelle (Plum), Synthetic

Muguet, for Cream

Mulberry, Extract (Natural)

Mulberry, Imitation

Mulberry Synthetic No. 1

Mulberry, Synthetic No. 2

Mulberry, Synthetic No. 3

Mushroom, Imitation No. 1

Mushroom, Imitation No. 2

Nectarine

Noisettee

Nougatine

Nutmeg, Imitation No. 1

Nutmeg, Imitation No. 2

Nutmeg, Imitation No. 3

Nutmeg, Imitation No. 4

Nutmeg, Imitation No. 5

Nuts, Flavor for Pastry

Nuts, Kernels (General Method of Flavor Extraction)

Onion

Onion, Extract (Natural)

Onion, Imitation

Orange, Extract (Natural)

For Orange Bitter Type

For Sweet Orange Type

Orange, Imitation No. 1

Orange, Imitation No. 2

Orange, Imitation No. 3

Orange, Imitation No. 4

Orange, Imitation No. 5

Orange, Imitation No. 6

Orange, Imitation No. 7

Orange, Imitation No. 8

Orange, Imitation No. 9

Orange, Imitation No. 10

Orange, Imitation No. 11

Orange, Imitation No. 12

Orange, Imitation No. 13

Orange, Imitation No. 14

Orange, Synthetic No. 1

Orange, Synthetic No. 2

Orange, Synthetic No. 3

Orange, Synthetic No. 4

Oregano, Type

Peach, Extract (Natural)

Peach, Imitation No. 1

Peach, Imitation No. 2

Peach, Imitation No. 3

Peach, Imitation No. 4

Peach, Imitation No. 5

Peach, Imitation No. 6

Peach, Imitation No. 7

Peach, Imitation No. 8

Peach, Imitation No. 9

Peach, Imitation No. 10

Peach, Imitation No. 11

Peach, Imitation No. 12

Peach, Synthetic No. 1

Peach, Synthetic No. 2

Peach, Synthetic No. 3

Peach, Synthetic No. 4

Peach, Synthetic No. 5

Peach, Synthetic No. 6

Peach, Synthetic No. 7

Peach, Synthetic No. 8

Peach, Synthetic No. 9

Peach, Synthetic No. 10

Peach, Synthetic No. 11

Peach, Synthetic No. 12

Pear, Extract (Natural)

Pear, Imitation No. 1

Pear, Imitation No. 2

Pear, Imitation No. 3

Pear, Imitation No. 4

Pear, Imitation No. 5

Pear, Imitation No. 6

Pear, Imitation No. 7

Pear, Imitation No. 8

Pear, Imitation No. 9

Pear, Imitation No. 10

Pear, Synthetic No. 1

Pear, Synthetic No. 2

Pear, Synthetic No. 3

Pear, Synthetic No. 4

Pear, Synthetic No. 5

Pear, Synthetic No. 6

Pear, Synthetic No. 7

Pear, Synthetic No. 8

Pear, Synthetic No. 9

Pear, Synthetic No. 10

Pear, Synthetic No. 11

Pear, Synthetic No. 12

Pear, Synthetic No. 13

Pear, Synthetic No. 14

Pea, Sweet, Imitation No. 1

Pea, Sweet, Imitation No. 2

Pea, Sweet, Imitation No. 3

Pea, Sweet, Synthetic No. 1

Pea, Sweet, Synthetic No. 2

Peppermint, Imitation No. 1

Peppermint, Imitation No. 2

Peppermint, Imitation No. 3

Peppermint, Imitation No. 4

Peppermint, Imitation No. 5

Peppermint, Imitation No. 6

Persicot, (Peach Kernel Imitation)

Pickle Spice Salts

Pineapple (Ananas) Extract (Natural) No. 1

Pineapple Peels

Pineapple, (Ananas) Extract (Natural) No. 2

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 1

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 2

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 3

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 4

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 5

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 6

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 7

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 8

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 9

Pineapple (Ananas), Imitation No. 10

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 1

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 2

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 3

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 4

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 5

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 6

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 7

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 8

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No. 9

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No.10

Pineapple (Ananas), Synthetic No.11

Pistachio Nut, Extract (Natural)

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 1

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 2

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 3

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 4

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 5

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 6

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 7

Pistachio Nut, Imitation No. 8

Plum, Extract (Natural)

Plum, Imitation No. 1

Plum, Imitation No. 2

Plum, Imitation No. 3

Plum, Imitation No. 4

Plum, Imitation No. 5

Plum, Imitation No. 6

Plum, Synthetic No. 1

Plum, Synthetic No. 2

Plum, Synthetic No. 3

Plum, Synthetic No. 4

Plum, Synthetic No. 5

Plum, Synthetic No. 6

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No.1

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No. 2

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No. 3

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No. 4

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No. 5

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No. 6

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No. 7

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Imitation No. 8

Pomegranate (Grenadine), Synthetic

Potato, Flavor

Pound Cake, Flavor

Powdered Flavors

Praline Flavor (Crystals)

Prunelle, Extract (Natural)

Quince, Extract (Natural)

Quince, Imitation

Quince, Synthetic No. 1

Quince, Synthetic No. 2

Quince, Synthetic No. 3

Raisin, Synthetic

Raspberry, Extract (Natural) No. 1

Raspberry, Extract (Natural) No. 2

Raspberry, Extract (Natural) No. 3

Raspberry, Imitation No. 1

Raspberry, Imitation No. 2

Raspberry, Imitation No. 3

Raspberry, Imitation No. 4

Raspberry, Imitation No. 5

Raspberry, Imitation No. 6

Raspberry, Imitation No. 7

Raspberry, Imitation No. 8

Raspberry, Imitation No. 9

Raspberry, Imitation No. 10

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 1

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 2

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 3

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 4

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 5

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 6

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 7

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 8

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 9

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 10

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 11

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 12

Raspberry, Synthetic No. 13

Ratafia

Rhodium

Root Beer, Imitation

Rose, Flavor

Rose, Liquor

Rosemary, Chili

Rum, Ether Flavor

Rum, Imitation No. 1

Rum, Imitation No. 2

Rum, Imitation No. 3

Rum, Imitation No. 4

Rum, Imitation No. 5

Rum, Jamaica No. 1

Rum, Jamaica, No. 2

Rum, Oil

Rum, Synthetic No. 1

Rum, Synthetic No. 2

Rum, Synthetic No. 3

Saint John Bread (Carob), Tincture

Sarsaparilla, Imitation No. 1

Sarsaparilla, Imitation No. 2

Sassafras, Imitation No. 1

Sassafras, Imitation No. 2

Sassafras, Imitation No. 3

Sassafras, Imitation No. 4

Sassafras, Synthetic No. 1

Sassafras, Synthetic No. 2

Sauce Flavors

Sauce, Flavor Base

Sauce, Soy Flavor

Savory, Oil No. 1

Savory, Oil No. 2

Scotch, Smoke Type Taste

Smoke, Flavor

Smoke, Flavor for Fish (Seasoning)

Smoke, Flavor for Meat

Spearmint-wintergreen-peppermint No. 1

Spearmint-wintergreen-peppermint No. 2

Spice, Imitation No. 1

Spice, Imitation No. 2

Strawberry, Extract (Natural) No. 1

Strawberry, Extract (Natural) No. 2

Strawberry, Imitation No. 1

Strawberry, Imitation No. 2

Strawberry, Imitation No. 3

Strawberry, Imitation No. 4

Strawberry, Imitation No. 5

Strawberry, Imitation No. 6

Strawberry, Imitation No. 7

Strawberry, Imitation No. 8

Strawberry, Imitation No. 9

Strawberry, Imitation No. 10

Strawberry, Imitation No. 11

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 1

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 2

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 3

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 4

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 5

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 6

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 7

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 8

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 9

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 10 General Base

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 11

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 12

Strawberry, Synthetic No. 13

Syrup, Base for Flavor (Pancake)

Syrup, Simple, Base for Flavor

Tamarind, Extract (Natural)

Tangerine, Extract (Natural)

Tangerine, Imitation No. 1

Tangerine, Imitation No. 2

Tarragon

Tea, Imitation No. 1

Tea, Imitation No. 2

Tea, Natural No. 1

Tea, Natural No. 2

Tea, Natural No. 3

Tobacco Formulas for Improving Flavor and Odor

Species of Natural Tobacco

Tobacco, Chewing, Flavor No. 1

Tobacco, Chewing, Flavor No. 2

Tobacco, Cigarette, Flavor No. 1

Tobacco, Cigarette, Flavor No. 2

Tobacco, Cigarette, Flavor No. 3

Tobacco, Flavor General

Tobacco, Flavor No. 1

Tobacco, Flavor No. 2

Tobacco, Flavor No. 3

Tobacco Flavor No. 4

Tobacco, Flavor No. 5

Tobacco, Flavor No. 6

Tobacco, Flavor No. 7

Tobacco, Flavor No. 8

Tobacco, Flavor No. 9

Tutti Frutti

Valerian, Root, Extract (Natural)

Vanilla

Vanilla, Concentrated Flavor

Vanilla, Flavor No. 1

Vanilla, Flavor No. 2

Vanilla, Flavor No. 3

Vanilla, Imitation No. 1

Vanilla, Imitation No. 2

Vanilla, Beans, Extract (Natural) No. 1

Vanilla Beans, Extract (Natural) No. 2

Vanilla Beans, Imitation

Vanilla Beans, Tincture No. 1

Vanilla Beans, Tincture No. 2

Vanillin, Crystal (Partial)

Vanillin, Flavored Mixture

Vanillin No. 1

Vanillin No. 2 (Ester Mixture)

Vanillin, Super Odor

Vanillin, Water Soluble

Vermouth

Vermouth, Italian Type No. 1

Vermouth, Italian Type No. 2

Vinegar, Spiced

Violet, Flavor

Walnut, Extract (Natural)

Walnut, Flavor For Ketchup

Walnut, Imitation No. 1

Walnut, Imitation No. 2

Walnut, Imitation No. 3

Walnut, Imitation No. 4

Walnut, Imitation No. 5

Walnut, Imitation No. 6

Wintergreen

Wintergreen, Synthetic No. 1

Wintergreen, Synthetic No. 2

Wintergreen, Synthetic No. 3

Woodruff, Extract (Natural)

Woodruff, Imitation

Woodruff, Synthetic No. 1

Woodruff, Synthetic No. 2

Worcestershire Sauce No. 1

Worcestershire Sauce No. 2

Sample Chapters

When one isdealing with hundreds and sometimes thousands ofraw materials of widely differing characteristic odours odourintensities andchemical and physical properties it is essential to have some means ofclassifyingthem of dividing them into groups and sub groups in order to facilitateselection comparison arrangement blending and even discussion of theirspecialfeatures and functions. As McCartney has observed in his scholarly workonolfaction and odours the difficulties of classification areparticularly wellknown to perfumers of course and they may often invent systems of theirown forprivate use.

Such privatesystems (and there is rarely anything secret ormysterious about them) are usually based on information gainedempirically addedto data culled from the existing literature and other professionalsources. Indevising his own simplified classification of odours in 1798 Fourcroyhad thegood sense to point out that this division this classification isarbitrary uncertainand fragile since our sensory impressions and above all those ofolfactoryorigin are not fixed permanent or equal in all men at the one time orin oneindividual at all times . Even so a perfumer s classification based onaperfumer s expertise and experience is almost certain to be of greatersignificance and practical utility to himself and to other perfumersthan wouldbe for example any of the non perfumery classifications based more orlessstrictly on botanical chemical or psychological considerations.

Published workson perfumery usually make reference to theodour classifications of Rimmel Piesse Zwaardemaker Heyninx Henning vonSkramlik Matteotti and Crocker and Henderson. The last named co workersannounced in 1927 their semi quantitative evaluation of odours makingpossiblethe accurate description of any odour by the simple device of afourdigit number.Crocker and Henderson s digits represent fragrant (or sweet) acid(sour) burnt(empyreumatic) and caprylic a truly remarkable simplification. Theyconsiderthat these four elementary odours arc the principal and perhaps theonly unitswhich make up all the odours we perceive. The maximum intensity of eachofthese elementary odours is arbitrarily allocated the number 8 so thatTonquinmusk whose code number is given as 8476 is top rated as 8 for fragrancewith amoderate 4 for acidity 7 for burntness and 6 for its supposed caprylictonality.Similarly rose is coded as 6423 but what is a rose odour? A rose is arose is arose is a rose to Gertrude Stein and presumably also to Crocker andHenderson butto the perfumer the rose odour is a most variable quantity. Asperfumers wefind it difficult to acknowledge the significance of 6423. The CrockerandHenderson system and the approach that it represents have attracted agood dealof attention and support though not chiefly one assumes amongpractisingperfumers.

Of much greaterinterest to the latter are some of theclassifications both of complex odours and individual odorants made byperfumers. These are necessarily subjective but cannot be lightlydismissed becauseof this as unsatisfactory. They not only fill an immediate need but areoftenextremely reliable. We ourselves have for example made a comparativestudy withsix other perfumers all working separately of a whole series ofodorantsassessing characteristics and analogies at three stages of evaporation.Thelevel of agreement was very high. When making such tests much dependsof courseupon professional training and objectivity.

A cleardistinction must here be made between attempts toclassify odours e.g. as floral woody balsamic and so on and attempts toclassify the actual odorants or constituents of complex odours as forexampleinto top note middle note and base note constituents. Both systems areuseful.It is probably more convenient to look first at some currentclassifications ofodorants. Of these the most comprehensive and ambitious is Poucher sclassification based on a subjective assessment of the relativeduration ofevaporation of some 330 perfumery chemicals essential oils and otherodorousmaterials. Obviously this published list could be very considerablyextended asW.A. Poucher has himself suggested. The main criterion of this type ofclassification is relative volatility which may be regarded as thevapourpressure at ordinary temperatures but in practice owing to the complexcharacter of essential oils and flower absolutes etc. it is vastly moresatisfactory to use a subjective method of comparing odorants. ThisPoucheraccomplished by examining each material or an appropriatelystandardiseddilution by means of smelling slips. When carrying out his tests he hadtodecide on what should be the end point of each odour . . . Thecharacteristicnote of some natural products may be fleeting while the residual smelllingerson. But since each aromatic substance is employed primarily for itstypicalodour note I decided to check and re check the point at which thisdistinguishing feature disappeared. Moreover I had to place a timelimit onthese substances of longest duration such as patchouli and oakmoss andI gavethem the figure or coefficient of 100 . . . To those that evaporated inlessthan one day I gave the coefficient I and to the others 2 to 100. Thuseventuallythe Poucher classification as published comprised over 300 items eachof whichwas distinguished by a coefficient ranging from 1 (e.g. amyl acetate)to 100(e.g. ambergris extract vanillin and vetivert).

The basic notesbegin with amyl phenylacetate and naturalcinnamic alcohol proceeding through such items as methyl naphthylketone civetabsolute hydroxycitronellal and cyclamen aldehyde to a long list ofresins balsamsand crystalline materials (coumarin vanillin artificial musks)aldehydes (amylcinnamic methyl nonyl acetic phenyl acetic) all rated at 100 togetherwithambergris castoreum patchouli pepper sandalwood and vetivert.

Thesesubdivisions are useful and enhance the value of thelist as a source of general reference. They do not however supply areadyanswer to the questions ÂWhatis a topnote? What is a fixative? As Poucher himself has hastened to observethere areoccasions when longer lasting odorants are used in such a quantity asto raisethem temporarily into a higher category. He in fact illustrates thispoint bygiving two simplified but characteristic formulae for a Lilac and aHyacinthperfume respectively. Among other features the former contains 1 percent of a10 per cent dilution of phenylacetic aldehyde while the latter contains10 percent of the pure undiluted aldehyde. There is no doubt that thisaldehyde actsas a top note despite its persistent character when it is utilised in adominant proportion.

When we comparethe results arrived at subjectively bydifferent authors we are apt to find a number of discrepanciesindicative ofdifferences in opinion but in general there is a broad area ofagreement. Thiswill be seen from Tables 1 and 2 taken respectively from the publishedwork ofEllmer and Carles.

Ellmer sclassification appears to have been the first of itskind to be published. His results match fairly closely thosesubsequentlyobtained by other perfumers although few will agree with his remarkablyhighpersistence values for rosemary oil and cuminic aldehyde nor does heappear tohave given sufficient attention to the basic notes as a class. JeanCarles onthe other hand seems to have over emphasised the importance of thebasic notes whenhe writes that they will serve to determine the chief characteristic ofthe perfume(for) their scent will last hours on end and will be essentiallyresponsiblefor the success of the perfume if any. It must be remembered howeverthatCarles was attempting for the benefit of his students to simplify arathercomplicated subject and in this respect was justifiably endeavouring tocorrectthe error Âall toocommon among beginnersin the art of perfumery Âofpayingattention almost solely to the top notes or notes de depárt.In the sameway he deliberately over simplified the structure of a perfume byconsideringit almost as a definite neatly defined architectural entity instead ofadynamic changing imbricated composition not merely existing in spacebutsimultaneously evolving and fluctuating in time.

The importanceof the basic note or accord or group ofaccords cannot of course be denied. Carles gives some extremely usefulinformation on this point. Even so one must admit that there are fewgoodperfumes and certainly no characteristically modern ones that dependchieflyfor their appeal and individuality upon those constituents which have alowvolatility and high tenacity. The three fundamental parts of a perfumeare asPaul Jeancard suggested the head the body and the base but the relativesizeand strength and general assembly and behaviour of these essentialpartsdepends upon a number of interrelated factors. Possibly the aptest nameever tohave been given a perfume is Arpege because an arpeggio effect in whichthenotes of a chord are played successively instead of simultaneously issoadmirably descriptive of perfume behaviour.

Some perfumersspeak of homogeneous and oscillating odours.Thus a world famous floral bouquet perfume oscillates between ahomogeneousaccord consisting of a fresh jasmin note sustained by an aldehyde andbergamotoil etc. on the one side and on the other a warmer lower chord composedofylang ylang blending into a residual note of vanilla and incense.

The type ofclassification of odorants shown in Tables 1 and2 is a most useful guide and discipline but the fact must not beoverlooked whenresorting to such classifications that the behaviour of some of thematerialsinvolved is more complex than its mere position in a relativevolatility tablemight indicate. This brings us back to reconsider what exactly we meanwhen wetalk about top notes. Firstly there are the very volatile true topnotes suchas may be found at the beginning of Poucher s and similar tables forexample ethyland amyl acetates ethyl aceto acetate methyl amyl ketone phenylethylacetate linalooland the citrus terpenes. There are also many relatively non volatileodorants whichin addition to their long lasting character have also pronounced topnoteeffects. In this group may be cited as common examples musk ambrette(asdistinct from the ketone or xylol) the macrocyclic musks ethyl vanillinmethylnonyl acetaldehyde gamma undecalactone and Fixateur 404. It will beseen thatall these have penetrating odours and it is perhaps this penetrating orpiercing quality (as Henri Robert has termed it) rather than merepungencywhich also gives the Middle Note odorant indole the emergent force andcharacter of a top note.

Though complexessential oils are also capable of beingassessed on the basis of relative volatility and must therefore beincluded insuch comparative tables.

The practicalvalue of a chart showing odorants groupedaccording to their relative volatilities is that it can serve as aguide toformulation and as a fertile source of suggestion. Thus as Poucherobserves aperfumer beginning work on a Lilac perfume can quite simply extractfrom thecomplete chart a number of odorants (in this case as few as nine) whichwillgive him the foundation of his perfume. These he will subdivide intothe threemain categories. Thus he quickly arrives at a Top note sectioncomprisingbenzyl acetate terpineol and phenylethyl alcohol a Middle note sectionconsisting of heliotropin and anisic aldehyde and a Basic sectioncontainingcinnamic alcohol hydroxycitronellal isoeugenol and phenylaceticaldehyde. Hewill then proceed in the usual way comparing his perfume from time totime withthe natural flowers that he is trying to imitate or with some otherlilacperfume that he aims at copying. At this stage he will doubtless thinkof otherodorants in order to improve the natural character of his experimentalblend toshade the odour into Pink Lilac or some other specific type or toconvert thefloral base into a more sophisticated blend rather than a simple floralcomposition. And in many instances reference to the chart can provideusefulstimuli even for example (and here Carles emphasises the sametechnique) byoffering information enabling new accords to be elaborated.

Henri Robertchief perfumer and technical manager of theChanel Bourjois and Barbara Gould organisation has published anextremelyinteresting classification of odours which combines the grouping ofodours assuch (e.g. Lilac Muguet the Cinnamic Group Spicy Odours and RosyOdours) withthe arrangement of the respective odorants or groups of odorants indecliningorder of volatility starting off with Sharp Fruity and Lifting groupsandending up with Vanilla Ambergris and Animal odours. He adds I have longemployed a classification of my own based like those of Cerbelaud andBillot onodour affinities. The eighteen groups themselves follow an order that Ihavetried (not very successfully perhaps) to render logical and whichobserves inprinciple the idea of volatility declining from top notes to basenotes.

The enthusiasmshown by Poucher Carles and many otherperfumers is shared by Henri Robert who adds each may have his ownclassification but I believe it indispensable to use one of them if itisdesired to work quickly properly and lucidly. Nothing should beneglected thatcan liberate us from useless labour and leave us more time for thatmeditationduring which the creation of a perfume is really accomplished.

Not so long agoit was fashionable in some circles to decryflower perfumes. Why it was asked should a woman want to smell offlowers? Theexclusion of flower perfumes from perfumery has been taking place overa longperiod . The flower perfume is dead . His subsequent observationshowever tendedto modify this initial impression because he went on to praise someforgottengarden scents gave suggestions for their formulation and recommendedtheirpotential use as background odours in more sophisticated fantasyperfumes.

Despite anyextravagant statements to the contrary flowersand their perfumes are still of very considerable and even basicimportance tothe perfumer. In the first place they are a stimulus a point ofreference and asource of pleasure and invaluable information. In the second some ofthem arestill irreplaceable raw materials despite any disadvantage that mayattach tothem in respect of scarcity or cost. And in the third place many flowernotesor floral accords form part of the essential structure of even the mostadvanced and up to date fantasy perfumes. The fashionable woman may notwish tosmell like a flower but neither is she improved by smelling like acrudemixture of synthetic chemicals or like a civet cat a musk deer or adish ofoverripe peaches. The finished perfume is after all a balanced blend ofratherwidely different odorants and in it the floral note still plays a vitalandeven a dominant part.

We shall begiving in this chapter foreach flower mentioned a list of Constituents used in its reproductionincludingsome that may be thought of as tricks of the trade although the mainobjectwill always be to approach the true note of each flower. Secondly weshall giveone two or more complete formulae by way of illustration. Here it isnecessaryto point out that such formulae can only be considered as the sum ofthe actualmaterials used in preparing them in the first place and that subsequentreproduction must involve olfactory adjustments in order to give thedesiredresult.

We shall startwith the morefamiliar perfumes based on flower notes.

ROSE

Rose notes varyconsiderably one fromanother. In addition to the basic components mentioned below under RedRose DamasceneRose and Centifolia Rose we find some important auxiliary notes in thenaturally occurring esters as well as in a few aldehydes and acetals.Manyother odorants also enter in relatively small amounts but withsignificanteffect into the composition of specialised rose notes e.g. those of thetearose.

Red Rose. This isusually considered to be the truest and finest type of rose odour. Itsmainconstituents are rhodinol phenylethyl alcohol alpha ionone and the veryusefulnerol. A more flowery effect is obtained by the addition of roseabsolute andBulgarian otto. Bulgarian geranium oil can when obtainable impart amuchappreciated green note.

Rose damascena. Amongnatural essential oils this is represented by Bulgarian rose. The basisof thisodour is given by rhodinol phenylethyl alcohol geraniol ex palmarosaoil andcinnamic alcohol always in association with certain natural essentialoils andesters.

Rose centifolia. The mainconstituents here are citronellol geraniol phenylethyl alcohol andrhodinol togetherwith smaller amounts of adjuncts which give it a slightly sharp notesuch as C9Âaldehydecitral etc.

Tea Rose. The basiccomponents are citronellol phenylethyl alcohol and geraniol. Theaccessoriesthat impart its special character include guaiyl acetate menthone andtuberoseabsolute.

Rose MaréchalNiel. In naturethis is a yellow rose with a very special perfume. Basically one usesgeraniolex palmarosa oil citronellol and synthetic geraniol in association withisoeugenol benzoin and sandalwood oil etc.

White Rose. Here thebase is rhodinol phenyl ethyl alcohol benzyl alcohol and linalool (togive itthe slightly acidulated note by which it is identified). The blend isroundedoff with a little bergamot phenylethyl acetate etc.

In all mattersrelating to rose perfumes one has to take intoconsideration the part played by Bulgarian Rose. This note is oftenrequiredbut unfortunately the widespread use of Bulgarian oil of rose in itspure stateis limited by considerations of cost. This necessitates research intocompositions i.e. diluents or extenders and these must be the bestpossible forthe purpose. By using certain raw materials judiciously one can in factarrive atsome very interesting extenders which will blend well with the naturaloil givingan excellent quality of end product at a reasonable price. The rawmaterials inquestion are relatively few in number. One thinks of phenylethylalcohol oil ofgeranium such as the Geranium incolore de Grasse geraniol rhodinol Icitronellol and very small quantities of nerol and farnesol.

A formula isgiven below. This is a convenient point toemphasise that no formula can be better than the type and quality ofitsindividual constituents. It is therefore essential for perfumers tomake theirown trials and adjust their final formulae accordingly.

Some readers maybe surprised to note the recurrence incertain of these formulae of branded specialities usually made by someof theleading supply houses. We make no apologies for these inclusionsbecause theyare in fact justified. Some are used because they contain new syntheticbodiesthat are not obtainable on the market in the pure state while othersare theresult of the highly skilled blending of standard ingredients that itwould beextremely difficult and time consuming to copy.

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Wherespecialities are cited under the names of specificfirms this simply means that no one firm makes and offers exactly thesame endproduct as the others. In each case one must take into account the factthatchemicals included in a process as trace impurities are not likely tobepresent in exactly the same pattern or proportions in a competitiveproduct.

Examples ofspecial shades of odour even among standardchemicals are provided for example by Givaudan s Laurine which is ahydroxycitronellal with a note of its own Âoftenin great demand ÂandLorena of Firmenich which though a nerol isyet distinguishable from other nerols.

A footnote torose compounding modern perfumery now alsomakes use with restraint of rose oxide.

JASMIN

Rose and jasminare still the most important flower notesused in perfumery. Singly or together they provide a conventionalfloralbackground for a great diversity of perfumes. Oil of jasmin has beenthesubject of much analytical research and on this basis it is possible todevisea wide range of formulae for jasmin artificial . Among the basiccomponents onemay note benzyl acetate amyl and hexyl cinnamic aldehydes benzylalcohol formatesalicylate and other esters indole and derivatives phenylethyl alcoholdimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetate hydroxycitronellal linalool linalyl acetateesters ofpropionic and butyric acids Peru balsam etc. To sweeten formulae forartificialasmins that may be somewhat crude and synthetic use can be made ofjasminabsolute châssis which is the absolute obtained bypetroleum ether orbenzene extraction from jasmin flowers that have previously beentreated by theenfleurage process but which have nevertheless retained some of theirperfume.This must not be confused with the actual absolute of jasmin denfleurage.

It is aprinciple in fine perfumery that natural materialsshould be used to sweeten and soften the odours of synthetic blends.When costingconsiderations prevent the more liberal use of naturals the result ofjudiciously incorporating even small quantities will usually proveconclusive.

ORANGEFLOWERAND NEROLI

Perfumers willbe well aware of the differences that existbetween these two closely related odours. Both are frequently used andit couldeven be said that there are relatively few compositions into which theorangeflower note does not enter. Neroli is particularly valuable ineau deCologne and related notes. Here are some examples.

This is a usefultype of formula for blending with naturalneroli in certain applications as a diluent. A suggested proportion is1 partof natural neroli oil to 2 parts of Neroli A.

In flowerperfumes closely associated with the orangeblossomnote e.g. honeysuckle syringa (Philadelphus coronarius) gardenia andnarcissus thefruity note of Apricot is often present and should always be borne inmind.

VIOLET

The classic noteof violet was adored by ladies at the turnof the century. Two species of the flower should be distinguished. ThesimpleViolet (Nice or Toulouse) may be based on a blend of methyl iononealpha iononeorris absolute or resinoid violet leaf absolute and phenylethylalcohol. Afloral note projected as it were by a trace of MNA aldehyde is impartedbyjasmin or cassie. The double or Parma violet is based on varyingproportions ofbeta ionone alpha ionone and methyl ionone together with orris resinoidorconcrete a little phenylethyl alcohol methyl octin carbonate a trace ofvetiverand a small quantity of hydroxycitronellal and even sometimes bergamot.Verysmall amounts of violet leaf absolute may be included but the greenleafy noteof Parma violets is much less accentuated. For imparting the necessarysweetness to the base of Parma violet use may be made of a plum ormirabellenote.

It is difficultto give a violet perfume the thrust requiredby modern perfumes. An interesting result has been obtained howeverwith a veryfresh lily of the valley composition used in just sufficient quantityto impartan exuberant freshness but not enough to impair the basic violet note.

Eau de Cologne

Still in fashionafter two and a half centuries eau deCologne has rightly been described as the most famous of perfumes. Likeotheraccepted works of art it emerged from a background of similarpredecessors ofwhich we need only name eau de Cordova and eau de ia Reine de Hongrie.Allthese early experiments however as well as such modifications as eaudesTempliers eau d ange and eau Royale de Louis XVIII have long sincefaded fromthe scene and are now of merely historical interest.

Halfway throughthe seventeenth century an Italian barber GianPaolo Feminis left his native Val Vigezzo to settle in Cologne.Merchant andperfumer as well as hairdresser he created a toilet water which hecalled AcquaDella Regina or Eau Admirable. Its first success appears to have beenassociated more closely with the medicinal and therapeutic claims madefor itthan with its odour. In due course Feminis grandson Giovanni (Johann orJean)Maria Farina founded the firm of that name and re styled the toiletwaterKölnisch Wasser or eau de Cologne. It is worth noting that some FrenchandEnglish perfumery texts of the early nineteenth century make no mentionof eaude Cologne but the fame of the latter became more widespread andintense whenthe house of Roger & Gallet came into the picture. This theydid byacquiring in 1862 from the perfumer Colas the sole interest that he hadthirtyyears previously purchased from the Farinas. To day the two firmsentitled touse the name of Jean Maria Farina are Jean Maria Farina Gegenuber demJulichsPlatz and Roger & Gallet.

In June 1960 aninternational celebration of the birth of eaude Cologne was held at Santa Maria Maggiore in the Val Vigezzo and aplaqueunveiled to commemorate the names of Feminis and Farina. Nor must oneoverlook ofcourse the creation of the 4711 brand associated with the name ofMuhlens.Another noteworthy Cologne is that introduced by Atkinson in the U.K.Italy andelsewhere.

Napoleon sperfumer Hadancourt supplied the Emperor with eaude Cologne in regular quantities of twelve Winchesters each of twolitres capacityfor Napoleon throughout his campaigns regularly freshened up withCologne. Atthis period the vinaigres (toilet vinegars) were also much in vogue.

This was allowedto stand and mature for at least 30 daysprior to filtration. The true J.M. Farina formula of this period wasalmostcertainly subjected to at least partial distillation.

Durvelle alsogave a formula for a so called J.M. FarinaCologne. The following materials are macerated in 25 litres of 95ºalcohol and4 litres of water for 12 hours fresh melissa herb 10 kg rosemary 5 kgfinelyreduced orris root 1 kg. Distillation is then effected and the extractSoobtained blended with 310 grams of bergamot oil 250 grams each of lemonandsweet orange oils 60 grams each of neroli and petitgrain oils 120 gramsoflavender oil and 25 additional litres of 95° alcohol. The batch is leftfor onemonth and then filtered.

Francesco LaFace the world s leading authority on Italiancitrus oils has discussed most of the raw materials utilised in classicColognes. First and foremost are the citrus oils or Hesperidaceaebergamot lemonand sweet orange followed by orangeflower neroli and petitgrain derivedfromthe bitter orange tree. Next come the herbal oils lavender rosemarymelissa(balm) and clary sage. Many other ingredients said to be used in theoriginal formulaare given in a paper by Fenaroli. They include traces of thyme wormwoodcalamusnutmeg hyssop caraway aniseed cinnamon and clove. Here we would pointout thatthe clove or carnation note should be regarded as important and evenindispensable in a Cologne base.

Even if one hadcurrent access to the types of materialactually used in the original classic Colognes one could not use themin thesame way i.e. by maceration infusion and distillation with alcoholfollowed bythe addition of essential oils and floral waters and a period ofmaturation.Many efforts have been made to translate what is known of the olderclassicformulae into modern practice. From these we select the following

Though clarysage is well known for its ability to blend withenhance and sustain the somewhat ambered fruity note of Colognescontaining it thereare few published formulae for old style Colognes that do in factmention clarysage as an ingredient. Natural unaoulterated oils of cedrat Melissaverbena andlimette are nowadays difficult if not impossible to obtain. Mere tracesofother oils were often included in order to impart a distinctive cachet.Amongthem were rose oils peppermint oil and in addition to those spicy andherbaceous oils already mentioned by Fenaroli angelica thyme cardamomfennel cuminand juniper.

In currentperfumery usage one finds personal preferencesamong perfumers for minor additions of clove nutmeg or caraway. Thymehyssop esteagonand myrtle have their adherents.

Variations amongthe major citrus constituents may includethe introduction of mandarin grapefruit and lime oils. Citral verbenanotesemphasise the essential freshness of the compound. Petitgrain is ofcourseinvaluable. Linalool linalyl acetate and ethyl linalyl acetate tendlike oil oflavender to add depth and richness but they should not be used toexcess.Nerolidol may help to round off the blend. Rose notes in particular arepopularin the U.K. as modifiers of the Cologne complex. Accentuation of therose orrosegeranium motif does not affect the initial odour or effect so muchas itdoes the residual odour on the skin. Even a first class product of thistype(and there is at least one very attractive blend) leaves behind on theskin anodour that is frankly and persistently rosaceous.

Classic eau deCologne is a fresh and harmonious blend ofpredominantly citrus oils. Its fragrance is exciting refreshingaltogetherdelightful and of short duration. That is its nature it cannot bechangedwithout losing this unique combination of qualities. If we try toprolong itsbrief existence by modifying the formula which is a comparativelysimple one oradding socalled fixatives we merely succeed in altering its characterit is nolonger a classic eau de Cologne. It can be made more sophisticated butonly atthe expense of its exhilarating freshness. Flowery notes can be blendedwith itand the results are sometimes extremely attractive but whatever theirmerits theyare not of course true eaux de Cologne.

Varying theCologne note can nevertheless prove to be aneducational and rewarding task. There are two main approaches. One istopreserve the Cologne character while introducing a certain amount ofnoveltyand variety. The second is to use the Cologne note as part of adistinct anddifferent blend so that while the effect of the note is still felt itsindividuality is merged and subordinated in the main design.

Greenhyacinthine top notes will sometimes blend effectivelyinto Cologne compositions. Ethyl acetate (about 0.2 0.4 per cent) tendsto liftthe top note. Methyl nonyl acetaldehyde may be present at about 1 percent of a10 per cent solution or at rather higher levels in modern ambered orsophisticated Colognes. Decyl aldehyde is also useful. At the other endof thescale one considers duration of odour and fixation . As we have seen areallywellfixed long lasting Cologne would not be a Cologne at all. Whereambergristincture or artificial ambers etc. are present in small quantities theyservein this instance more as blending and homogenising agents than asfixatives.Traces of decoiorised oakmoss can give some interesting effects.

Some years agoWells carried out a series of tests on eau deCologne constituents using the live human skin as the testing groundinstead ofthe more conventional smelling slips. As when tested on the latter theodoursof most of the hesperidean oils proved to be short lived. Added citralimpartsimproved persistence and Grasse verbena oil enhances freshness. Sweetandbitter orange oils each behave differently as one would expect but botharegood and they can usefully be employed in admixture. Lime oil isforceful andtoo characteristic at first but soon fades. Clary sage lasts well soalso doesrosemary. Coriander is an extremely good skin perfume but highproportionsspoil the effect of a Cologne smelt on a slip or a handkerchief. Of theshadingnotes we liked the odour on the skin of estragon thyme hyssop nutmegandcaraway. There is only one of the nitro musks that remains sweet andstable onthe skin that is musk ambrette. Of the lower notes labdanum Peru balsamandbenzoin are of interest.

It will beappreciated that a toilet water must first of allbe attractive in the bottIe and in its first evaporative phase outsidethebottle. It is not judged primarily by its odour on the skin but thislatter isnevertheless an important factor epecially in a type of perfume that isoftenliberally applied to the skin surface. A careful comparison of theworld sleading eaux de Colognes from the skin behaviour point of view is alsoenlightening. One that is distinguished by its characteristic sparklingodourin the bottle and on the handkerchief also has the maximum freshnessandcleanest top note on the skin.

Many of theearly Cologne formulae or traditional botanicalmixes of citrus spice and herb oils were very similar to theBenedictine andrelated types of liqueur especially if one substituted sugar fortincture ofbenzoin. The dual purpose of the benzoin was to act as a fixative andensure anopalescent effect when the Cologne was poured into water.

TOILETWATERS

Toilet watersconsist of perfume oil alcohol water andoccasionally glycerin. Opinions vary on the subject of glycerinaccording toE.G. Thomssen it possesses some solvent power for the perfumeconcentrate butis more often used to retard volatilization of the perfume . . . whenappliedto the skin. The co solvent action of a few per cent of glycerin wouldseem tobe negligible even in a perfume of low alcohol content and althoughVeronicaConley and others have repeated the view that glycerin may retard theevaporation of perfume from the skin we consider this possibility to beverydoubtful and have said that in some cases giycerin appears toaccelerateperfume evaporation from the skin rather than retard it. The presenceof water howevergenerally increases the persistence of odours on the skin.

At the time ofwriting there is no world wide agreement oneither the perfume strength or the alcoholic strength of Toilet Waters(eaux detoilette) Eaux de Cologne Parfums de Toilette Eaux de Parfum SkinPerfume CreamPerfume or other fancifully named products which are all essentiallydiluteversions of the conventional alcoholic perfume. There is not even anygeneralagreement among manufacturers on the relative strengths of thesedifferentdilutions. Many of them contain from about 3 to 8 per cent of perfumeand areprepared at alcoholic strengths of 75 to 90 vols percent as comparedwithperfumes at strengths ranging from 12 to 22 per cent of concentrateincorporatedin 95° alcohol. Many Colognes and toilet waters are however availableon themarket at much lower alcoholic strengths with 50° regarded in at leastonecountry as a permissible minimum. In the production of low alcoholicColognes etc.solubility problems naturally arise and must be dealt with by carefulselectionof deterpenated oils relatively soluble synethetics etc. appropriatetesting chillingfiltration and even in extreme cases by using solubilizing agents andcosolvents to give stable clear pseudosolutions in very dilute alcohol oreven inwater.

While on thesubject of ethyl alcohol which is of course thepreferred choice in perfumery as a solvent diluent and vehicle oneshould notethat both synthetic and fermentation grades are available. Permitteddenaturants and other excise regulations vary from country to country.Methodsof assessing and describing the relative strengths of alcohol alsovary. AnAlcohol Directive has been drafted by the E.E.C. and subjected toproposedamendments. Isopropyl alcohol has been used at various periods as apartialsubstitute for ethyl alcohol as a perfume vehicle but it lacks thevinousquality and other attractive properties of the latter. Some years ago awellknown petroleum firm produced on the experimental scale an odourlesshydrocarbon product of suitable volatility intended as a perfumesolvent. Ithad been designed to replace alcohol in gelatin encapsulated perfumesbut mightequally have proved useful for other special applications e.g. as apermissiblealternative to alcohol in strictly Mohammedan markets. It was neverdevelopedcommercially however owing to its limited sales potential.

Alcohol remainsthe ideal perfume solvent with its extremelymild smooth odour which blends so well with perfumery materials. With aboilingpoint of 78° C it is not too volatile it permits a satisfactoryevaporation ofthe perfume and at the same time conserves the fixative elements whichensurethe tenacity that is generally expected of a good perfume.

THEUSES OF PERFUMES

ÂWelive in a world ofodour just as we live in a world of light and sound observed scientiststowardsthe end of last century. Had the noted physiologist and student ofolfactionbeen alive today he would doubtless be astonished at the way in whichtheodorous character of urban life throughout the world has been extendedandintensified. In the big Cities we are never far removed from themanifoldactivities of the perfumery industry. To compile a complete list ofperfumeapplications is virtually impossible because new appiications are beingdiscovered almost daily. The following list though far from completewill atleast serve to indicate something of the range of perfumery uses in amodernindustrialised society.

While theunspoken aim of every ambitious perfumer mustsurely be to create a true perfume by which one means an alcoholicextract thatwill attain a satisfactory measure of international celebrity it mustbeadmitted that few perfumers ever realise this aspiration. Yet manybecome wellknown to their contemporaries as the creators of this or that soapperfume(e.g. of French Fern or Imperial Leather or Cashmere Bouquet). Stillothersdevote most of their creative activities to the preparation ofattractive stableand otherwise satisfactory perfume compositions for use in the varioustoiletries industrial products etc. listed above. The problems whichtheyencounter in this work are many and some of them are consideredindividually inthe remaining pages of this chapter.

PERFUMESFOR SOAPS

Perfumes ofoutstanding performance in soap are the exceptionrather than the rule observes Pickthall adding as a corollary that manyperfumes which give exce1lent results in a variety of otherpreparations willbe failures in soap. It will probably be conceded by most perfumers andsoapmakers that their most successful perfumes have been the result ofconsiderabletrial and error. Years of experience will have shown which individualingredients give strong and lasting effects in soap but in certaincombinationsor blends even these otherwise successful items will fail to producetheanticipated effects.

Four attitudesto soap perfuming should be taken into accountin order to ensure the production with the minimum waste of time andeffort ofa successful soap perfume. They are (1) psychological and aesthetic (2)economic (3) technical and (4) chemical. The fourth term is looselyused inthis context to cover physical chemical and biochemical as well asstraightforward chemical reactions.

The governingfactors are or should be those of apsychological aesthetic and artistic character. While it is mostdesirable thatthe soap perfumer should have a sound scientific knowledge of theprobablebehaviour of aldehydes ketones esters and so on when they areincorporated in asoap base it is even more essential that he shall be an artist inperfumery ableto understand anticipate and satisfy changing fashions in the publictaste forperfumes. In addition to this he ought to be capable of selecting andusing hisraw materials to the best economic advantage. The techniques that heemploys inhis work are likewise extremely important for they should be adoptedandmodified in such a way as to save him the maximum amount of time andtrouble bothduring the creation and compounding of the perfume and its subsequentshelftesting in soap.

On this matterof technique one method has been described insome detail ÂI carryout initial smallscale experiments in compounding by utilising a 10 ml pipette with eachmldivided into tenths this affording a convenient means for making thecompoundon a percentage basis. All liquids are thus measured by volume whileall solidmaterials are weighed out in the usual manner. When at work I normallystartwith 5 pipettes steeping in alcohol and another 5 standing in adraining rack.Also useful are 1 ml pipettes graduated in 1 100ths together with a 10mlcylinder similarly graduated in l 100ths and a 50 ml cylinder. If agraduatedcylinder is used the larger volumes of liquid can be poured directlyinto it followedby the smaller quantities duly pipetted. This method of volumetriccompoundingis more economical rapid and generally convenient than the use of abalance thoughit has of course its disadvantages. There is always a probability ofintroducing errors unless specific gravities are duly taken intoaccount whentranslating volumetric into mass measurements for example when workingbyvolume one could be using 1 ml of a product with a specific gravity of0.85 therebyusing only 0.85 grams or 1 ml of a substance with an s.g. of 1.2thereby using1.2 g. A further margin of error may be introduced when pouring orpipettingviscous liquids. This can be minimised by using 50 50 or weakerdilutions ofsuch materials or eutectk mixtures (such as equal parts of cinnamicalcohol andmethyl cinnamate). The dilutions to maintain the odour intensity may bemade inother active constituents of the formula rather than with alcoholdiethylphtbalate or similar solvents. The problem of contamination is bestdealt withby using a fresh pipette for each raw material and by keeping currentstocks ofthe latter to a minimum i.e. in bottles ranging from about 15 ml to 100mlcapacity. It is most desirable to avoid the use of small bottles thathave aneck orifice too narrow for the easy introduction of the pipette.Steepingalcohol should be changed frequently.

The soapperfumer is never allowed to forget that the perfumesoap system presents certain unique and sometimes unpredictablebehaviouralphenomena. For that reason he is obliged to test his perfume in astandard soapbase and not merely on smelling strips at all stages of itsdevelopment. Hetests his raw materials in this way often at the level of 1 per cent insoap andmay similarly test partial blends in soap before finally completing hisperfumeand testing that. The small perfumed soap tablets may be examinedimmediately storedwrapped or unwrapped and then re examined or subjected to accelerationtestswith U.V. light etc. In this way it is possible to assess odour andcoloureffects and record them over a prolonged period filing the informationsoobtained for future reference.

Many lists andother compilations of data relating toindividual perfumery materials and their behaviour in soaps have beenpublished.

As pointed outby Sfiras the keeping properties of perfume insoap are governed by various physico chemical phenomena. Hespecificallymentions the absorption of perfume by the soap evaporation of perfumetheautoxidation of both soap and perfume and the reactivity of soap due totheequilibrium RCOONa + H2O RCOOH +NaOH. In regard to the first two factors Pickthall s work shows thatsomeperfumes will tend to remain in the aqueous phase some will probably beabsorbed on the outer surface of the soap micelle some may be absorbedbetweenthe methyl tails and some apparently become orientated in the micelleforming amore or less stable complex.

Esters. Pickthallpointed out in 1956 that the effect ofacetylation is to increase strength of odour. He was of coursecomparing theodour yield in soap of acetates and their parent alcohols. Dervichianof theInstitut Pasteur reiterated this fact in 1961 with the esters there isnoassociation hence no solubilisation and as a direct consequence theesters givein soaps a more intense odour than do the alcohols. Decyl alcohol givesafeeble odour decyl acetate a strong odour geraniol a feeble odourtetrahydrogeraniolwhich is a saturated compound and thus more soluble gives a very weakodour whilegeranyl acetate gives a very strong odour. So if we mix geraniol andgeranylacetate in a soap it is the acetate which will dominate whereas in analcoholicsolution the reverse will hold good. These results are valid for socalledanhydrous soaps which actually contain a certain proportion of water (510 percent).

Esters varyconsiderably one from another in their stabilityand odour yield in soap but as a group they are valuable constituentsof soapperfumes. Among the carbinol esters styrallyl (methyl phenyl carbinyl)acetate isoutstanding.

Alcohols. As we haveseen alcohols tend to give uniformly lowerodour values in soap than do the corresponding esters but for the samereasonthey usually remain well fixed in the soap and their odours though mildarepersistent. Fatty alcohols have weak odours but unsaturation in thechainimproves the odour performance. Of the terpene alcohols the mostimportant arelinalool and terpineol. Anisic alcohol is useful in lilac and muguet.

Ketones. In this groupperformance varies considerably. Amongthose substances with a good odour yield in soap are the iononesbenzophenone p.methoxy and p. methyl acetophenones and elhyl amyl ketone.

Aldehydes andAcetals. Many aldehydesaromatic terpene andaliphatic are widely used in soap perfumery despite their reactivityandrelative instability as a class. Cyclamen amyl cinnamic and lauricaldehydesare among those which can give very satisfactory results. In some casesthealiphatic aldehydes are pre mixed with the corresponding alcohols withthe intentionof improving their stability by facilitating the formation of hemiacetals.Recent work seems to show that this practice has little effect.

Dimethyl anddiethyl acetals cannot be used as simplesubstitutes for the corresponding aldehydes. Their odours are differentandtheir performance not always encouraging.

OtherConstituents. Of the ethersseveral aredistinguished by their satisfactory odour effects in soap. Examples areamylbenzyl ether p.cresol methyl ether and diphenyl ether and diphenyloxide.Terpenes can give quite interesting results. As one would expect theodouryield of phenols ranges from moderate to poor. Eugenyl acetate gives astrongerodour than eugenol or isoeugenol but it discolours and is not entirelystable.The effect of methylation as in eugenol methyl ether is to enhance thestrengthof odour. Of the lactones one may note such useful items as gamma nonyllactonegamma undecalactone and coumarin.

ÂThesoap perfumer ofto day Âobserved RoyHuttleston in 1961 Âwouldlook askance at some of the perfumeformulations used years ago. A typical formula contained largepercentages ofsuch natural products as neroli cassia cloves geranium lavenderpatchouli rosemarysandalwood and vetiver with only small proportions of coumarin and afew othersynthetic aromatic chemicals and isolates. This was indeed the pictureup tothe beginning of World War II. A French soap perfume formula used inthe late1920 s included for example six difterent essential oils four resinsand resinoids one concrete oil and three straight synthetics (amyl salicylateand twonitro musks). Today the cost of such a perfume would be prohibitive andin thecase of a widely distributed soap a sufficiency of some of the naturalmaterials might not always be available. Advances in syntheticchemistry haveprovided the soap perfumer with an ever increasing range of syntheticodorants fromwhich he can select products of good odour and colour stability capableofcreating new perfume effects. At the same time the production ofsyntheticodorants aids materially in standardising quality and stabilisingcosts. Evenso the utility of the natural products should not be underestimated.Althoughone is now frequently obliged to reverse the practice so reasonablyrecommendedin the Twenties (concentrate on natural products and add to theireffect by theuse of isolates and synthetics) it is still true to say as he did thenthatPeru balsam styrax olibanum and other resinoids can form the backboneof manysoap perfumes which indeed could scaredy exist without them. Otherwriters havealso emphasised the usefulness of resinoids as soap perfumeconstituents andfixatives.

Soap PerfumeryFashions. It isessential for thecreative soap perfumer to keep in touch with changing fashions not onlyin hisown country but throughout the world. Changing Fashions in SoapPerfumes wasthe subject of a paper read some years ago at a meeting of the SociétéTechnique des Parfumeurs de France. In it the author discussed aselection ofthe newer odorants available at that time under such headings as floralspicy woodyfruity and musk amber notes. After suggesting applications for theseodorants whichincluded a few essential oils as well as several synthetics andproducts ofonly partially disclosed constitution he proceeded to a criticalanalysis ofsome of the best European perfumed soaps of that period. This is thekind ofinvestigation that would normally form part of the background routineof atypically enterprising soap perfumer.

White toiletsoaps withrestrained clean smelling odours were made fashionable in the 1935 1945period.Since then soaps have become more colourful and their perfumes morepronounced distinctiveand even exotic. Colour in soap is not merely decorative it alsosuccessfully concealsany slight discoloration caused by the use of certain odorants whichfor thisreason would not be acceptable in pure white soaps. Perfumes are alsoused insome brands at least in higher concentration or at higher intensity –thisserving to perfume the skin after the bath or shower. Greater care isalsotaken to avoid the use of perfumery materials known to irritatesensitiveskins.

Other workershaverecommended that soap perfumes should frequently consist of thesmallestpossible number of ingredients and that above all each odorant shouldbeselected for its strength of odour and stability in soap base. What isnotwanted is a formula containing passengers which do not contributeeffectivelyto the final result and which reduce the perfume s overall intensity.

BALSAMIC

DESCRIPTIONChemicals with apenetrating pleasant odor similar to the fragrant resin or oleoresinflowingfrom various plants containing benzoic or cinnamic acid.

COMMON VARIETIESPeru Balsam fromCentral America Tolu Balsam from Colombia Copaiba Balsam from BrazilandVenezuela Balm of Gilead shrub Middle East Africa Canada Balsam NorthAmericafir tree Benzoin from Styrax tree in Southeast Asia and Sumatra

CHEMICALS FORSCENTMATCHING (1)Benzyl benzoate (2) Benzylcinnamate (3) Cinnamic alcohol (4) Cinnamylacetate (5)Cinnamyl anthranilate (6) Cinnamyl butyrate (7) Cinnamyl isobutyrate(8)Isobutyl cinnamate (9) Phenyl ethyl salicylate

(10) Phenylpropyl cinnamate

CITRUS

DESCRIPTIONChemicals with odorsimilar to the citrus trees and shrubs flowers (Aurantiaceae).Citrus isa generic name referring to a group of trees and shrubs of the Rutaceaewhosefruits are edible with juice rinds oils and acids all useful.

Citrus trees arethorny evergreen withlong shiny pointed leaves. The leaves and the flowers are fragrant.Citrusplants grow in warm climates where there is no frost or wind. Theycontainlarge amounts of vitamins and minerals and are high in Vitamin C. Ripecitrusfruits are yellow to orange red in color.

Bergamot is onlyused in perfumeryand as a histological clearing agent.

COMMON VARIETIESCitrus aurantiumsweet orange Citrus aurantium var. Bigaradiabitter orange Citrusmedica citron Citrus medica var. Limonumlemon Citrusmedica var. Acida lime Citrusdecumana grapefruit (shaddock) Citrusbergamia bergamot

CHEMICALS FORSCENT MATCHING (1)Acetate C 12 (2) Alcohol C 7 (3) Alcohol C 8 (4) Alcohol C 9 (5)Alcohol C ll undecylenic(6) Alcohol C ll undecylic (7) AldehydeC 8 (8)Citral (9) Linalylbuttyrate (10)Methyl heptenone pure (11) Methyl nonyl ketone (12) Neryl acetate

FATTY

DESCRIPTIONChemicals with a fattyodor

CHEMICALS FORSCENT MATCHING (1)Benzyl laurate (2) Nonoie acid

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FLOWERY

DESCRIPTIONChemicals with a floralodor

CHEMICALS FORSCENT MATCHING (1)Acetanisole (2) Acetate C 9 (3) Acetate C 11 (4) (Amyl cinnamic alcohol(5)Anisyl alcohol (6) Benzyl isovalerate (7) Benzyl propionate (8)Cinnamicalcohol (9) Cinnamyl acetate (10) Cinnamyl propionate (11) Ethyllaurate (12)Hydroxycitronellal dimethyl acetal (13) Linalool (14) p Methylacetophenone (15)Methyl phenyl carbinol (16) Methyl phenyl propionate (17) Phenylacetaldehyde (18)Phenyl acetic acid (19) Phenyl propyl acetate (20) Phenyl propylcinnamate (21)Phenyl propyl formate

GRASSY

DESCRIPTIONChemicals with a grassyodor

CHEMICALS FORSCENT MATCHING (1)Isocyclocitral

GREENFLORAL

DESCRIPTIONChemicals with green topnote and floral background odor

CHEMICALS FORSCENT MATCHING (1)Methyl heptyne carbonate (2) Methyl octine carbonate (3) Methyl phenylcarbinol(4) Phenyl acetaldehyde

HARSHPUNGENT

DESCRIPTIONChemicals with a harshpungent penetrating odor

CHEMICALS FORSCENT MATCHING (1)Aldehyde C 7 (2) Methyl quinoline

HERBLIKE

DESCRIPTIONChemicalswith an herb like odor

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Phellandrene

LEAF GREEN

DESCRIPTIONChemicalswith an odor similar to green leaves

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Acetal R (2) p Methyl hydratropie aldehyde (3)Phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal (4) Phenyl acetaldehyde eth­ylene acetal(5)Phenyl ethyl acetal (6) n Propyl acetal

MUSKY

DESCRIPTIONChemicalswith a persistent odor similar to musk

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Civettal (2) Skatole

ODORLESS FAINT

DESCRIPTIONChemicalswith an almost imperceptible odor

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Benzyl alcohol (2) Cetyl alcohol

WAXY

DESCRIPTIONChemicalswith a waxy odor

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Myristic alcohol

WOODY

DESCRIPTIONChemicalswith an odor similar to wood

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Dimethyl benzyl carbinol (2) Isobutyl quinoline(3)Isopropyl quinoline (4) Vetacetyl

Simulated Flower Scents

ACACIA

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae Genus Acacia Species Greggii

OCCURRENCEAbout450kinds of acacia grow in tropical regions and lands close to thetropics. Twelvevarieties grow in the U.S. mostly in Texas and California.

DESCRIPTION Theflowers are bright yellow with a sweet odor. In some plants theyclustertogether forming balls. Others have white flowers.

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Anisic aldehyde (2) Isobutyl benzo­ate (3)Methylanthranilate (4) Phenyl acetic aldehyde (5) Yara yara

Basis (1) AlcoholC 9 (2) Alcohol C I0 (3) Aldehyde C 9 (4) Aldehyde C­ 10

BERGAMOT

BOTANICAL FamilyRutaceae Genus Citrus Species Bergamia Subspecies Risso. Poiteau

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Citronellyl acetate (2) Limonene (3) Linalool(4)Linalyl acetate (5) Linalyl formate (6) Linalyl propionate (7)Menthanylacetate (8) Terpinyl acetate

CARNATION

BOTANICAL FamilyCaryophyllaceae Genus Dianthus Species Caryophyllus (commongarden)

DESCRIPTIONThereare pink purple red white and yellow carnation flowers

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Acetyl isoeugenol (2) Benzyl isoeugenol (3)Coumarin (4)Eugenol (5) Methyl eugenol (6) Methyl isoeugenol (7) Nerol (8)Terpineol (9)Vanillin

Basis (1) AlcoholC 9 (2) Aldehyde C 8 (3) Aldehyde C 9

CASSIA

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae Genus Cassia Species Acutifolia Angustifolia (Indian)Matilandia(wild Surna) Fasciculate (partridgepeas) there are more than 400species of cassia

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Anisic aldehyde (2) Anisyl acetate (3) Ionone(4) Methylacetophenone

Basis (1) AldehydeC 8 (2) Aldehyde C 9 (3) Aldehyde C 10 (4) Aldehyde C 12

CHRYSANTHEMUM

BOTANICAL FamilyCompositae Genus Chrysanthemum

DESCRIPTION Astrong scented shrubby herb growing in temperate regions worldwide. Thename isfrom the Greek word meaning golden flower. Because of its beautiful andabundant blooms it is extensively cultivated. The flowers are whiteyellow pinkor red.

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Phenylethyl formate

CLOVE

SYNONYMS Eugeniacaryophyllata

BOTANICAL FamilyMyrtaceae Genus Caryophyllus Species Aromaticus

OCCURRENCE Thetree grows wild inthe Moluccas (also called Spice Islands) in Sumatra Jamaica West IndiesandBrazil

DESCRIPTION Thename clove refers tothe dried flowers (buds) of a tropical tree.

The buds arepicked before they open to become a flower. They are used as a spiceand arecalled cloves.

An oildistilled from the dried buds and stems is widely used in the flavorandperfumery industry.

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Caryophyllene (2) Eugenol (3) Eugenol acetate(4)Isoeugenol phenyl acetate

CLOVER

SYNONYMS Newmown hay Fain coupe

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae Genus and Species See Common Varieties

COMMONVARIETIES Trifoliumpratense (red clover) Trifoliumrepens.hybridum crimson.incarnatum alsike (white clover) Melilotus alba (whitesweet clover)Melilotus officinalis (yellow sweet clover) Melilotusindica (sourclover)

DESCRIPTIONAbout300 different kinds of clover plants exist. growing wild in fieldslawns andalong roadsides. Some species are cultivated for livestock food.

Red clover providespasture for farm animals and enriches the soil because of its highnitrogencontent. It is also the main source of hay. White clover inaddition tobeing a valuable pasture corp provides its blossom nectar to bees forthemaking of superior honey. Alsike clover. alSbcalled Swedish clover iswhite or pink in color. Crimson clover has avariety of colors red.white yellow scarlet. It is also called Italian type clover. Sweetclover iscalled Melilot from the Latin word miele (honey). Sour cloverisprimarily used for improving the soil.

Clovergenerally has three leaves. According to superstition four leavedclover bringsluck while five or six leaved clovers bring misfortune.

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Benzylidene acetone (2) Benzyl salicylate (3)Coumarin (4)Linalyl acetate (5) Methyl salicylate

CYCLAMEN

BOTANICAL FamilyPrimulaceae (primrose) Genus Cyclamen

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Cyclamen aldehyde (2) Hydroxy­ citronellal (3)Ionone (4)Rhodinol

Basis (1) AlcoholC 9 (2) Aldehyde C 9 (3) Aldehyde C 10 (4) Aidehyde C 12

FERN

SYNONYMS Fougere

BOTANICAL Theferns are classified into 12 families.

The mostcommon and widely distributed family is Family Polypodiaceaewhichincludes several genera Genus Pteridium (thebracken) Adiantum (maid­enhair)Dryopteris (woodfern) Asplenium (spleenworts)Polypodium (polypody)Comptosorus (walking leaf) Onoclea (sensitivefern) Polystichum(holly ferns).

Otherfamilies include Family Trichomanes (filmy fern) Lygodium(climbingfern) Ophioglossum (adder s tongue) Botrychium(rattlesnake fern)

OCCURRENCE Fernsgrow worldwide but more commonly in the tropics. About 300 varietiesgrow inthe U.S.

DESCRIPTIONThereare about 10 000 kinds of ferns in different sizes and shapes from mosslike to40 foot tall trees. The fern is a flowerless plant.

The basicfougereperfume is made by simple blending of oakmoss coumarin and amylsalicylate orjust oakmoss and amyl salicylate.

CHEMICALSFOR SCENT MATCHING (1) Ethyl phenyl acetate (2) Isobutyl salicylate (3)Linalylacetate.

Basis (1) AlcoholC 8 (2) Alcohol C 9 (3) Aldehyde C 8 (4) Aldehyde C 9 (5) Aldehyde C 1O(6)Aldehyde C II (7) Aldehyde C 12 MNA

Introduction

Â

The esters ofamyl benzyl butyl ethyl methyl and propylalcohols with acetic butyric cinnamic formic oenanthic propionicsalicylic andvalerie acids are extensively used in synthetic compounding of flavors.Purealdehyde C 14 (peach) and aldehyde C ­16 (strawberry) are alsoextensivelyemployed. Ethyl vanillin is used in the preparation of flavors forbeveragesice creams cakes cookies etc.

The esters arelisted by similarity of flavor and odor toeach specific natural product. Esters much closer in flavor and odor tothenatural product. They may be categorized as

Fruity Esters with ageneric fruity flavor and odor

Fresh fruits Estersspecifically similar inflavor and odor to each fruit

Tropical fruits Estersspecifically similar inflavor and odor to each fruit

Dry fruits Estersspecifically similar inflavor and odor to each fruit

Naturally sweetproducts Esters specificallysimilar in flavor and odor to each product

Daily beverages Estersspecifically similar inflavor and odor to each product

Alcoholicbeverages Estersspecifically similar inflavor and odor to each product

Dairy products Estersspecifically similar inflavor and odor to each product

Culinaryadditives Estersspecifically similar in flavor and odor to each product

Stabilizers Esters specificallysimilar in flavor and odor to each product

Duringcompounding the quantity of each ester or other chemical is determinedby theindividual s taste and all factory sense in matching the flavor andodor ofeach natural product. These are reported as a general orientation forthecompounding of flavors and perfumes.

Natural Flavors Simulated with Synthetic Chemicals

FRUITY

CHEMICALSFOR FLAVOR MATCHING (1) Acetate C 8 (2) Acetate C 9 (3) Aldehyde C 7(4) Allylpelargonate (5) Amy benzoate (6) Amyl butyrate (7) Benzyl butyrate (8)Benzylisoamyl ether (9) Benzyl isovalerate (10) Cinnamyl anthranilate (11)Cinnamylbutyrate (12) Cinnamyl isobutyrate (13) Cinnamyl propionate (14) Ethylacetate (15)Ethyl amyl ketone) (16) Ethyl laurate (17) Ethyl pelargonate (18) Ethylpropionate (19) Ethyl sebacate (20) Linalyl butyrate (21) Linalylisobutyrate (22)p Methyl acetophenone (23) Methyl phenyl propi­onate (24) Phenyl ethylisobutyrate (25) Phenyl ethyl isovalerate (26) Phenyl ethyl propionate(27) Octylbutyrate (28) Octyl formate (29) Rhodinyl butyrate (30) Santalyl phenylacetate(31) Terpinyl propionate

FRESH FRUIT

APPLE

BOTANICAL FamilyRosaceae Genus Malus Species Pumila (cultivated) Wild (Malussylvestris Malusbaccata)

OCCURRENCE Thereare about 30 varieties of wild apples worldwide seven are found in theU.S.A.

CHEMICALSFOR FLAVOR MATCHING (1) Acetaldehyde (2) Aldehyde C 11 (undecylenic)(3)Aldehyde C 14 pure (4) Aldehyde C I6 (5) Amyl acetate (6) Amyl butyrate(7)Amyl propionate (8) Amyl valerianate (9) Citronellol (10) Ethyl acetate(II)Ethyl butyrate (12) Ethyl malonate (13) Ethyl nitrate (14) Ethyl phenylglycidate (15) Geranyl butyrate (16) Isoamyl butyrate (17) Isoamylvalerianate (18)Isovaleraldehyde (19)Malic acid (20)Nerolidol (21) Tartaric acid

APRICOT

BOTANICAL FamilyRosaceae Genus Prunus Species Armeniaca

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Aldehyde C 9 (2) Aldehyde CI4 pure (3) Amyl acetate (4) Amyl butyrate (5) Amyl propionate (6)Benzylacetate (7) Benzyl butyrate (8) Benzyl cinnamate (9) Benzyl propionate(10)Cinnamyl alcohol (11) Citronellol (12) Ethyl acetate (13) Ethylbenzoate (14)Ethyl butyrate (15) Ethyl cinnamate (16) Ethyl formate (17) Ethyloenanthate (18)Ethyl salicylate (19) Ethyl valerianate (20) Eugenol (21) Heliotropin(22)Isoamyl butyrate (23) Phenyl ethyl acetate (24) Phenyl ethyl alcohol

BARBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilyBerbindaceae Genus Berberis Species VulgarisThunbergie (Japanese) Julianae (Wintergreen)

OCCURRENCE Growsin Europe and western Asia

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Aldehyde C 10 (2) Amylacetate (3) Amyl butyrate (4) Ethyl acetate (5) Ethyl benzoate (6)Ethylbutyrate (7) Ethyl formate (8) Ethyl oenanthate (9) Ethyl salicylate(10)Tartaric acid

USES AND NOTESThe berries can be eaten Beverages wine berberithrough fermentation with honey hydromele Syrups jams and jellies

BILBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilyEricaceae Genus Vaccinium Species CorymbosiumVa­riety Scandinavian

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Amyl butyrate (2) Ethylacetate (3) Ethyl benzoate (4) Ethyl salicylate (5) Rhodinyl butyrate

BLACKBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilyRosaceae Genus Rubus Species Occidentalis

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Anisaldehyde (2) Diphenyloxide (3) Ethyl oenanthate (4) Heliotropin (5) Ionone (6) Methylanthranilate (7)Methyl ionone (8) Neryl isovalerate (9) Rhodinyl butyrate (10) Vanillin

BLACKCURRANT

BOTANICAL FamilySaxifrage Genus Ribes Species Nigrum

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Amyl formate (2) Ethylbenzoate (3) Isoamyl formate (4) Linalyl isobutyrate (5) Linalylpropionate (6)Methyl propionate

USES AND NOTESBlack currant has a sharper flavor than thered currant. It is more popular in Canada and in Europe than in theU.S. wherethe red currant (Ribes rubrum) is used to makejellies jams wines andpies.

The goldencurrant (Ribes adoratum) or Missouriflowering currant grows wild in North America. White and yellowishcurrants areusually eaten as a fresh dessert.

BLUEBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilyEricaceae Genus Vaccinium Species Corymbosium(high blueberry) Pennsylvanium (lowblueberry)

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Amyl propionate (2) Methylionone (3) Rhodinyl butyrate

USES AND NOTESDesserts creams pastries pies

CHERRY(SWEET AND SOUR)

BOTANICAL FamilyRoseaceae Genus Prunus (sweet) SpeciesAvium. Cerasus (sour)

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Allyl benzoate (2) Allylisovalerate (3) Amyl cinnamate (4) Amyl formate (5) Anisaldehyde (6)Anisylacetate (7) Anisyl propionate (8) Benzaldehyde pure (9) Benzyl acetate(10)Cinnamaldehyde (11) Ethyl acetate (12) Ethyl benzoate (13) Ethylbutyrate (14)Ethyl oenanthate (15) Metbyl benzyl propionate (16) Rhodinyl formate(17)Rhodinyl isovalerate (18) p Tolyl acetaldehyde (19) Tolyl aldehyde (20)Vanillin

USES AND NOTESSeveral kinds of cherry trees are planted forornamental reasons Japanese cherry trees are world famous for theirbeauty

CRANBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilyEricaceae Genus Vaccinium Species MacrocarponOxycoccus (European)

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Alcohol C 8 (2) Alcohol C10 (3) Aldehyde C 10 (4) Acetophenone (5) Amyl alcohol (6) Benzaldehydepure (7)Benzyl acetae (8) Benzyl alcohol (9) Benzyl formate (10) Ethyl acetate(11)Ethyl benzoate (12) Ethyl isovalerate (13) Ethyl salicylate (14)Eucalyptol (15)Furfural (16) Isoamyl acetate (17) Isoamyl alcohol (18) Isoamylbutyrate (19)Isobutyl alcohol (20) Linalool (21) Phenyl ethyl alcohol (22) ÂTerpineol (23) Valeraldehyde(24) Vaniliin

USES AND NOTESSauces jellies and juices

DATE

BOTANICAL FamilyPalmaceae Genus Phoenix Species Dactylifera

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Aldehyde C 14 pure (2)Cinnamic aldehyde (3) Isoamyl acetae (4) Isoamyl butyrate (5) Isobutylphenylacetate (6) Eugenol

USES AND NOTES Atall palm with pinnate leaves yieldingdates. Dates are generally marketed dried. A liquor called arrack ismade fromdates. Ground dates yield oil roasted ground dates can substitute forcoffee

FIG

BOTANICAL FamilyMoraceae Genus Ficus Species Carica

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Maltol (2) Ethyl cinnamate

GOOSEBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilySaxifragaceae Genus Ribes Species Hirlillum(American) Grossularia (European)

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Aldehyde C 14 (2) Ethylacetate (3) Ethyl benzoate (4) Ethyl oenanthate

USES AND NOTESGooseberries are related to the currants. Theymay have prickly hairy or smooth surfaces. They are used in preservesand pies.

GRAPE

BOTANICAL FamilyVitaceae Genus Vitis Species Vinifera

OCCURRENCE Thereare various species of grapes in America Labruscaor fox Aestivalis Norton Delaware Vulpina Rotundifloria or MuscadineCatawba red(winemaking) Concord purple black Niagara green Scuppernong

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1) Aldehyde C 14 (2) Amylbutyrate (3) Cinnamyl propionate (4) Ethyl acetate (5) Ethyl formate(6) Ethyloenanthate (7) Ethyl pelargonate (8) Ethyl salicylate (9) Eugenol (10)Isoeugenol (11) Methyl anthranilate (12) Methyl Ânaphthylketone (13) Phenyl ethyl anthrani­late(14) Tartaric acid (15) Seedless raisin (unbleached) (16) Lees (dregs)extract(sediment of wine during fermentation)

GRAPE FRUIT

BOTANICAL FamilyRutaceae Genus Citrus Species Paradisi. Decumana Maxima (Shaddohor pomelo)

CHEMICALSFOR FLAVOR MATCHING (1) Ethyl acetate (2) Citral (3) Li­monen (4)Linalool (5)Linalyl acetate

USES ANDNOTES Some grapefruits have no seeds but their taste is not as good asthosewith seeds. Commercial seedless grapefruits include the marsh varietyas wellas ruby and Thompson varieties the popular pink grapefruits. Nodifference intaste is detectable between the pale yellowish and the pink fleshedgrapefruit.Grapefruit and tangerine trees produce a fruit called tangelo.

HOP

BOTANICAL FamilyCannabinaceae Genus Humulus Species Lupulus (Euro­pean) Americanus(wildAmerican) Scandens (Japanese)

CHEMICALSFOR FLAVOR MATCHlNG (1) Anisaldehyde (2) Butyric acid (3) Capraldehyde(4)Cinnamic aldehyde (5) Ethyl acetate (6) Ethyl isovalerate (7) Ethyloenanthate (8)Ethyl pelargonate (9) Eugenol (10) Heliotropin (11) Limonene (12)Phenyl ethylacetate

USES ANDNOTES Hops are used to make beer

HUCKLEBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilyEricaceae Genus Gaylussacia Species Baccata

CHEMICALSFOR FLAVOR MATCHING (1) Anethole (2) Ethyl acetate (3) Isoamyl acetate(4)Isoamyl butyrate (5) Ethyl benzoate (6) Linalool

USES ANDNOTES The berries have a sweet juice. They are blue black.

LEMON

BOTANICAL FamilyRutaceae Genus Citrus Species Limonia

CHEMICALSFOR FLAVOR MATCHING (1) Acetaldehyde (2) Alcohol C 8 (3) Aldehyde C 8(4)Aldehyde C 9 (5) Amyl valerianate (6) Citral (7) Citral dimethyl acetalextra (8)Ethyl acetate (9) Ethyl nitrate (10) Geraniol (11) Geranyl acetate (12)Linalylacetate

LIME

BOTANICAL FamilyRutaceae Genus Citrus Species Aurantifolia

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1)Amyl acetate (2) Amyl butyrate (3) p Cymene (4)Dipentene (5) Ethylacetate (6) Hydroxycitronellal (7) Linalyl acetate (8) Methyl nonylacetaldehyde (9) Terpineol

LOGANBERRY

BOTANICAL FamilyRosaceae Genus RubusSpecies Ursin us

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1)Aldehyde C 9 (2) Benzoic acid (3) Amyl acetate (4)Ethyl acetate (5)Ethyl benzoate (6) Ethyl butyrate (7) Ethyl formate (8) Ethyloenanthate (9)Tartaric acid

USES AND NOTESThe flavor ofloganberry is sharp. On cooking however it improves and is used forcanned jamsjuices or dried.

MANDARIN

BOTANICAL FamilyRutaceae Genus CitrusSpecies Nobilis Variety Deliciosa

CHEMICALS FORFLAVOR MATCHING (1)Aldehyde C 8 (2) Aldehyde C 9 (3) Aldehyde C 10 (4) Amyl acetate (5)Citral (6)Ethyl anthranilate (7) Ethyl formate (8) Ethyl salicylate (9) Linalool(10)Tartaric acid

Â

ALDEHYDEC 18

CHEMICALFORMULA C9H16O2

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity 0.958 0.965 (15 C) Refractiveindex 1.44601.4500 (20 C)

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Coconut

ANETHOLE

CHEMICALFORMULA C10H120

DERIVATION Bycrystallization from anise or fennel oil synthetically from p cresol

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity 0.984 0.987 (15 C) Refractiveindex 1.55701.5610 (20 C) Boiling point 233 234 C Meltingpoint 22.5 23 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Anise

ANISALDEHYDE

SYNONYMS Aubepine

CAS NUMBER 12311 5

CHEMICALFORMULA C8H802

DERIVATION Fromanethole or anisole by oxidation (anisole is obtained from sodiumphenate methylchloride heating phenol with methyl alcohol)

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity 1.119 1.123 (25/25 C)Refractive in­dex 1.5701.574 (20 C) Boiling point 245 249 C Meltingpoint 0 to 4 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Cherry anise

BENZALDEHYDE

CHEMICAL FORMULAC7H6O

CAS NUMBER 10052 7

DERIVATION (a)Air oxidation oftoluene with uranium or molybdenum oxides as catalysts (b) Chlorinationoftoluene with further hydrolysis by acid or alkali

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.041 1.046 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.54401.5465 (20 C)Boiling point 179.5 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Bitteralmond

BENZYLBUTYRATE

CHEMICAL FORMULAC11H14O2

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.006 1.009 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.49201.4960 (20 C)Boiling point 242 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Rose apricot

BOURBONAL

SYNONYMS Ethylvanillin

CAS NUMBER 12132 4

CHEMICAL FORMULAC9H10O3

DERIVATION Fromvanilla beans

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Melting point76.5 78 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Vanilla

CARVONE

CAS NUMBER 99 490

CHEMICAL FORMULAC10H14O

DERlVATION dform main component ofcaraway and dill oils l form occurs in spearmintsynthetically from dlimonene and rectified

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.960 0.964 (15 C) Refractive index 1.49951.1502 (20 C) Boilingpoint 225 231 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Caraway

CINNAMICALDEHYDE

CAS NUMBER 10455 2

CHEMICAL FORMULAC9H8O

DERIVATION (a)From Ceylon andChinese cinnamon oils (b) By condensation of benzaldehyde andacetaldehyde

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.047 1.051 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 16200 1.6230 (20 C)Boiling point 118 120ÂC

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Cinnamon

CINNAMYLALCOHOL

CAS NUMBER 10454 1

CHEMICAL FORMULAC9H10O

DERIVATION (a)From cassia oil orcinnamon oil (b) By reduction of cinnamic aldehyde

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.029 1.034 (30 C) Refractive index 1.5721.577 (30 C) Boilingpoint 256.6 C Melting point 32 34 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Rose

CINNAMYLBUTYRATE

CHEMICAL FORMULAC13H16O2

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.010 1.015 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.52501.5280 (20 C)Boiling point 262 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Rose fruits

CINNAMYLPROPIONATE

CHEMICAL FORMULAC12H14O2

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.029 1.033 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.53201.5370 (20 C)

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Grape

CITRAL

CAS NUMBER 539240 5

CHEMICAL FORMULAC10H16O

DERIVATION (a)Isolated byfractional distillation of lemongrass (b) Synthetically by oxidation ofgeraniol neroli or linalool by chromic acid

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.881 0.889 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.48201.4910 (20 C)Boiling point 228 229 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Lemon

CITRONELLOL

CAS NUMBER 10622 9

CHEMICAL FORMULAC10H20O

DERIVATION (a)From citronella oil geraniumoil savin oil (b) Reduction of citronella or geraniol

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.852 0.860 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.45301.4600 (20 C)Boiling point 224.4ÂC

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Rose

COUMARIN

CAS NUMBER 9164 5

CHEMICALFORMULA C9H6O2

DERIVATION (a)By heating salicylic aldehyde sodium acetate and acetic anhy­ dride (b)Isolated from tonka beans

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Boiling point 301.7 C Meltingpoint 68 70.5 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Caramel

CUMIC ALDEHYDE

CAS NUMBER 12203 2

CHEMICALFORMULA C10H12O

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity 0.976 0.980 (25/25 C) Refractivein­dex 1.5301.5340 (20 C) Boiling point 235 237ÂC

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Violet

DECYL ACETATE

SYNONYMS AcetateC 10

CHEMICALFORMULA C12H24O2

DERIVATION Bygently boiling capric aldehyde and glacial acetic acid (for severalhourstogether) in presence of zinc dust or powder precipitating with wateranddistilling under reduced pressure

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity 0.862 0.866 (25/25 C) Refractivein­dex 1.42501.4300 Boiling point 103 104 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Fruits rose

n DECYL ALCOHOL

SYNONYMS AlcoholC 10 1 decanol

CHEMICALFORMULA C10H22O

DERIVATIONReductionof coconut oil fatty acids from C9Âolefinand gassynthesis by otto process

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity 0.826 0.832 (25/25 C) Refractivein­dex 1.43501.4390 (20 C) Boiling point 231 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Rose neroli

n DECYL ALDEHYDE

SYNONYMSAldehydeC 10 n decanal

CHEMICALFORMULA C10H20O

DERIVATIONOccursin lemongrass citronella orange and many other oils Synthetically byoxidationof alcohol C 10 or reduction of decanoic acid (capric acid). Capricacid isobtained by fractional distillation of coconut fatty acids

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.822 0.830 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.42701.4300 (20 C)Boiling point 207 209ÂC

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Orange violet

DODECYLALDEHYDE

SYNONYMSAldehyde C 12 MNA lauricaldehyde lauryl aldehyde

CAS NUMBER 11254 9

CHEMICAL FORMULAC12H24O

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.822 0.830 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.43101.4360 (20 C)Boiling point 184 185ÂC

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Violet

ETHYLACETATE

CAS NUMBER 14178 6

CHEMICAL FORMULAC4H8O2

DERIVATION Byheating acetic acidand ethyl alcohol in presence of sulfuric acid and distilling

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.905 (15 C) Refractive index 1.3726(20 C) Boiling point75.7 78 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Cognac fruity

ETHYLACETOACETATE

CHEMICAL FORMULAC6H10O3

DERIVATION Bythe reaction ofmetallic sodium on ethyl acetate and distilling

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.026 (15 C) Boiling point 181C

CHARACIERISTICSAND USES Apple pineapple

ETHYLBENZOATE

CAS NUMBER 93 890

CHEMICAL FORMULAC9H10O2

DERIVATION Byheating ethyl alcoholand benzoic acid in presence of sulfuric acid and distilling

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.043 1.046 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.50301.5060 (20 C)Boiling point 260 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Blackcurrant

ETHYLBUTYRATE

CAS NUMBER 10554 4

CHEMICAL FORMULAC6H12O2

DERIVATION Byheating ethyl alcoholand butyric acid in presence of sulfuric acid and distilling

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.881 0.886 (15 C) Refractive index 1.3961.492 (20 C) Boilingpoint 120 125 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Pineapple

ETHYLMALONATE

CAS NUMBER 10553 3

CHEMICAL FORMULAC6H10O4

DERIV ATION Bypassing hydrogenchloride into cyanoacetic acid dissolved in absolute alcohol anddistilling

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.055 (15 C) Boiling point 198.4C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Apple

ETHYLMYRISTATE

SYNONYMS Ethyltetradecanoate

CHEMICAL FORMULAC16H32O2

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Boiling point295 C Melting point 10 11 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Butter

ETHYLOENANTHATE

SYNONYMS Ethylheptanoate cognac oil

CHEMICAL FORMULAC9H18O2

DERIVATION Byheating oenanthic acidand ethyl alcohol in presence of sulfuric acid and distilling(oenanthic acidis obtained by oxidizing heptanol with potassium dichromate andsulfuric acid)

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity0.871 0.872 (15 C) Refractive index 1.414(20 C) Boiling point 187189 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Cognac winefruity soft drinks (apricot cherry currant gooseberry grape artificialessenceof bourbon etc.)

ETHYLPELARGONATE

SYNONYMS Ethylnonylate

CHEMICAL FORMULAC11H22O2

DERIVATION Fromalcoholic solutionsof various essences

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.863 0.865 (25/25 C) Refractive in­dex 1.4211.426 (20 C) Boilingpoint 227 231 C

CHARACTERISTICSAND USES Wine cognac

Introduction

Solvents areliquids which dissolveother substances (solute) generally a solid without any change in thechemicalcomposition (solution).

The proportionof the substances ina solution depends on the solvent solubility which is limited to acertainquantity at a given temperature and pressure. The solution when amaximum ofsolute is dissolved is termed saturated. A supersaturated solution canbecreated but may be turbid and may further precipitate.

Solvents areclassified by theirdissolving capacity. The aromatic hydrocarbon solvents have a highersolventcapacity than the aliphatic type. The organic solvents are classifiedin groupsbased on their chemical composition and are given with some examples

Hydrocarbons aliphatic N aphtha and its fractions

ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂÂHydrocarbonsaromatic Benzenetoluene xylene

Alcohols Ethyl alcohol ethylene methylalcohol

Ethers Dimethyl ether ethylene glycolmonoethyl ether

KetonesAcetonemethyl ethyl ketone methyl isobutyl ketone

Esters Butyl acetates butyl lactate ethylacetate

Chlorinated Chloroform tetrachloroethanemonochlorobenzene

Nitrated Nitroethane nitromethane 1nitropropane 2nitropropane nitro­ benzene

Amines Monoethanolamine diethanolaminepyridine

Liquefiedgases Ammonia sulfur dioxide

Solvents Commonly Used forFlavors and Perfumes

ACETONE

SYNONYMSDimethylketone 2 propanone ketopropalle pyroacetic ether

CAS NUMBER 6764 1

CHEMICALFORMULA C3H6O

MOLECULARWEIGHT 58.08

DERIVATIONOxidationof cumene or butane or oxidation of isopropyl alcohol with a metalliccatalyst byproduct of synthetically produced glycerol

CHARACTERISTICSForm Volatile liquid Color ColorlessOdor Sweetish

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific gravity 0.792 Refractiveindex 1.3591 Boilingpoint 56.2 C Flash point 15 F SolubilityMiscible with water alcoholether chloroform and most oils

USES ANDNOTES General solvent (not for flavors)

WARNING ANDCAUTION Toxic fire risk

BENZENE

SYNONYMS Benzolcyclohexatriene

CAS NUMBER 7143 2

CHEMICALFORMULA C6H6

MOLECULARWEIGHT 78.11

DERIVATIONFractionaldistillation of coal tar catalytic reforming of petroleum

CHARACTERISTICSForm Liquid Color Colorless oryellowish Odor Aromatic

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specific graviry 0.8790 (20/4 C) Refractiveindex 1.50110Flash point 12 F Solubility Misciblewith alcohol ether acetone carbontetrachloride slightly soluble in water

USES ANDNOTES General solvent (not for flavors)

WARNINGS ANDCAUTION Toxic fire risk

CORN OIL

SYNONYMS Maizeoil mazola oil maydol

BOTANICAL FamilyGraminaceae Genus Zea Species Mays

CHARACTERISTICSForm Oil Color Yellowish orbrownish Odor Faintly oily

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.914 0.921 Refractive index 1.464­1.468 Flashpoint 610F Solubility Soluble in chloroform ether slightlysoluble in alcohol

USES AND NOTESFood pharmaceuticals

COTTONSEEDOIL

BOTANICAL FamilyMalvaceae Genus GossypiumSpecies Herbaceum oil

CHARACTERISTICS FormOil ColorYellowish Odor Odorless

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.915 0.921 Refractive index 1.46451.4655 Solubility Slightlysoluble in alcohol soluble in ether chloroform carbon disulfide

USES AND NOTESCosmetics soaps foods

CYCLOHEXANE

SYNONYMSHexamethy1ene hexanaphthenehexahydro benzene

CAS NUMBER 11087 7

CHEMICAL FORMULAC6H12

MOLECULAR WEIGHT84.16

DERIVATION Fromcrude petroleum catalytichydrogenation of benzene

CHARACTERISTICS FormMobileliquid Color Colorless Odor Pungent

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.779 (20/4 C) Refractive index 1.4264(20C) Boilingpoint 80.7 C Flash point 1 FSolubility Insoluble inwater soluble in alcohol

USES AND NOTESEssential oilsextraction solvent for resins fats oils

WARNINGS ANDCAUTION Fire risk

DlETHYLPHTHALATE

SYNONYMS Ethylphthalate 1 2benzenedicarboxylic acid diethyl ether

CAS NUMBER 84 662

CHEMICAL FORMULAC12H14O

MOLECULAR WEIGHT222.23

DERIVATIONReaction of phthalicanhydride with ethyl alcohol

CHARACTERISTICS FormLiquid ColorColorless Odor Odorless

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.120 Refractive index 1.5002(25 C) Flashpoint 325 FSolubility Insoluble in water miscible with almostall esters andhydrocarbons

USES AND NOTESPerfumery solvent fixativedenaturant

WARNINGS ANDCAUTION Toxic

ETHYLACETATE

SYNONYMS Aceticether acetic ester aceticacid ethyl ester vinegar naphtha

CAS NUMBER 14178 6

CHEMICAL FORMULAC4H8O2

MOLECULAR WEIGHT88.10

DERIVATION Byheating acetic acidand ethyl alcohol in presence of sulfuric acid and distilling

CHARACTERISTICS FormLiquid ColorColorless Odor Fragrant

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.8945 Boiling point 77 C Flashpoint24F SolubilitySlightly soluble in water soluble in alcohol ether chloroform

USES AND NOTESFlavors pharmaceuticals

WARNINGS ANDCAUTION Toxic fire risk

ETHYLALCOHOL

SYNONYMS Grainalcohol ethanol

CAS NUMBER 64 175

CHEMICAL FORMULAC2H6O

MOLECULAR WEIGHT46.07

DERIVATION Winefrom grapes.molasses from ethylene

CHARACTERISTICS FormVolatileliquid Color Colorless Odor Pleasant

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.816 (15.56C) Refractive index 1.3651Boiling point 78C Flash point 55 F Solubility Misciblewith water ether chloroformacetone

USES AND NOTESSolvent for essentialoils flavors perfumes beverages medicine

WARNINGS ANDCAUTION Fire risk

GLYCEROL

SYNONYMSGlycerin glycyl alcohol 1 23 propanetriol trihydroxy propane

CAS NUMBER 56 815

CHEMICAL FORMULAC3H8O3

MOLECULAR WEIGHT92.09

DERIVATION Byproduct of soap from propyleneand chlorine

CHARACTERISTICS FormSyrupyliquid Color Colorless Odor Odorless

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.2620 Boiling point 290 C Flashpoint 320F SolubilitySoluble in water alcohol insoluble in ether benzenechloroform

USES AND NOTESPerfumery cosmetics liqueursflavors

GLYCERYLTRIACETATE

SYNONYMSTriacetin 1 2 3propanetriol triacetate triacetyl glycerin enzactin

CAS NUMBER 10276 1

CHEMICAL FORMULAC9H14O6

MOLECULAR WEIGHT218.20

DERIVATION Fromglycerol and aceticacid

CHARACTERISTICS FormLiquid ColorColorless Odor Fatty

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.160 (20 C) Refractive index 1.4312(20 C) Boiling point258 260 C Flash point 300 F SolubilitySlightly soluble inwater soluble in alcohol ether

USES AND NOTESPerfumery cosmetics flavorsmedicine

n HEXANE

CAS NUMBER 10054 3

CHEMICAL FORMULAC6H14

MOLECULAR WEIGHT86.17

DERIVATIONFractional distillationfrom petroleum (molecular sieve process)

CHARACTERJSTICS FormLiquid ColorColorless Odor Faint

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.65937 (20/4 C) Refractive index 1.37486(20 C) Boilingpoint68.742C Flash point 9 F SolubilityInsoluble in water solublein alcohol acetone ether

USES AND NOTESSolvent for vegetableoils

WARNINGS ANDCAUTION Toxic. firerisk

ISOPROPYLALCOHOL

SYNONYMSIsopropanol dimethylcarbinol 2 propanol petrohol

CAS NUMBER 67 630

CHEMICAL FORMULAC3H8O

MOLECULAR WEIGHT60.09

DERIVATION Frompropylene andsulfuric acid with hydrolyzing

CHARACTERISTICS FormLiquid ColorColorless Odor Fragrant

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.7863 (20/20 C) Refractive index 1.3756(20 C) Boilingpoint 82.4 C Flash point 59 F SolubilitySoluble in water al­coholether

USES AND NOTESSolvent for essentialoils flavors perfumes

WARNINGS ANDCAUTION Toxic fire risk

POLYSORBATE80

SYNONYMS POE(20) sorbitan oleateTween 80

CAS NUMBER 900565 6 (generic)

DERIVATIONCondensation of ethyleneglycol or ethylene oxide and water

CHARACTERISTICS FormViscousliquid Color Yellowish

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Solubility Solublein water and almost all solvents

USES AND NOTESCosmetics flavors pharmaceuticals

PROPYLENEGLYCOL

SYNONYMS Methylglycol 1 2propanediol 1 2 dihydroxypropane methylethylene glycol

CAS NUMBER 57 556

CHEMICAL FORMULAC3H8O2

MOLECULAR WEIGHT76.09

DERIVATIONHydration of propyleneoxide

CHARACTER1STCS FormViscousliquid Color Colorless Odor Odorless

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 1.0381 (20/20 C) Refractive index 1.4293(27 C) Boilingpoint 187.3 C Flash point 210 F SolubilitySoluble in water alcoholand almost all solvents

USES AND NOTESFlavors perfumes syrupssoft drinks

SOYBEANOIL

SYNONYMS Soyabean oil soy oil Chinesebean oil

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae GenusSoya Species Hispida oil

CHARACTERISTICS FormOil ColorYellowish or brownish Odor Character­istic

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.924 0.929 Refractive index 1.4760­1.4775 Flashpoint 540FSolubility Soluble in alcohol ether chloroformcarbon disulfide

USES AND NOTESFoods

WATERDISTILLED

SYNONYMSHydrogen oxide

CHARACTERISTICS ColorColorlessOdor Odorless

PHYSICALPROPERTIES Specificgravity 0.997 Refractive index 1.333 Boilingpoint 100 C

USESAND NOTES Universal solvent

Â

Natural Colors

ALKANET

SOURCE/COLORAlkanet root red

BOTANICAL FamilyBoraginaceae Genus Alkanna Anchusa Species Tinctoria

USES ANDN0TES The color red is prepared from its roots (alkannin). It isemployed forcoloring wines cosmetics and fats and as an astringent.

ANNATTO

SOURCE/COLORAnnatto yellowish red

BOTANICAL FamilyBixaceae Genus Bixia Species Orellana

USES ANDNOTES The color is made from the pulp around the seeds of this tropicaltree(bixion). It is employed in coloring butter margarine cheese oils icecream icecream cones sausage casing bakery goods and spices. It is also used incombination with turmeric.

ÂAPO8 CAROTENAL

SOURCE/COLORApo 8 carotenal orange 6

USES ANDNOTES It is an aldehydic carotenoid found in spinach oranges grasstangerine andmarigold. It is used in coloring fat products such as cheese margarineandoils.

BEET

SOURCE/COLORBeets (dehydrated powder) dark red

BOTANICAL FamilyChenopodiaceae (goosefoot) Genus Beta Species Vulgaris

USES AND NOTESThe beet rootscontain red pigments (betacyanins) and yellow pigments (betaxanthins)collectivelyclassified as betalains. Of the betacyanins 75 95% is betanin which isthe maincolorant of the beet.

The colorant isemployed in candies yogurtsice creams cakes powdered drinks soft drinks gelatin dessert meatsubstitutes.Much of the world s sugar comes from the sugar beet.

BUCKTHORN

SOURCE/COLORBuckthorn yellow

BOTANICAL FamilyRhamnaceae SapodillaGenus Rhamnus. Brumelia Species Cathartica Lycioides

USES AND NOTESNative to Eurasiawith small greenish flowers black berries

CAMPEACHY

SOURCE/COLORCampeachy wood(longwood) blue

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae GenusHaematoxylon Species Campeachianum

USES AND NOTES Acrystallinephenolic compound is also in the log wood and employed mainly as abiologicalstain.

CANTHAXANTHIN

SOURCE/COLORCanthaxanthin orange

BOTANICAL FamilyThallophyta GenusCantharellus Species Cinnabarinus

USES AND NOTESInitially isolatedfrom an edible mushroom (Cantharellus cinnabarinus) andalso found inmarine algae in sea trout daphnia salmon brine shrimps and severalspecies offlamingo.

Canthaxantin isavailable as a drypowder and used as a colorant (orange 8) for tomato fruit drinks bakedgoods sausageproducts.

CARAMEL

SOURCE/COLORCaramel dark brown

USES AND NOTESCaramel is a burnedsugar generally made from liquid corn syrup. The major use for caramelis insoft drinks particularly root beer and cola. Other uses include thecoloring ofsyrups rum candies preserves canned meat products cough syrups andpharmaceuticals.

CATECHU

SOURCE/COLORCatechu brown

BOTANICAL FamilyAcacia Genus CatechuSpecies Gambier

USES ANDNOTES It is obtained from a tropical Asiatic plant. It is used indyeing andtanning and in medicines. Catechu makes brown dyes used in coloringleather. Itis also used to dye and print cotton cloth such as calico.

CHLOROPHYLL

SOURCE/COLORChlorophyll green

USES ANDNOTES The extraction is made with strong alcohol from green plants. Itisemployed as a coloring agent and deodorant. The solution is blue greenwith adeep red fluorescence. The extract which is waxy is soluble in alcoholether chloroformacetone carbon disulfide and benzene. As a green colorant it is usedmostly forsoaps oils fats waxes liquors preserves cosmetics toothpaste medicine.

COCHINEAL

SOURCE/COLORCochineal carmine red 4

ZOOLOGICAL FamilyCochinilla Genus Dactylopius Species Coccus Variety Cacti

USES ANDNOTES A red dyestuff made from the dried bodies of the female cochinealinsectswhich feed on cactus (Coccus cacti).

It is usedin candies pill coating and as a biological stain and indicator.

CUD BEAR

SOURCE/COLORCud bear yellow

BOTANICAL FamilyLichens Genus Lecano raceal Species Rocellaceae

USES ANDNOTES A reddish purple powder colorant from lichens. It is used forcoloringsyrups elixirs etc.

CURCUMA

SOURCE/COLORCurcuma root yellow

BOTANICAL FamilyZingiberaceae Genus Curcuma Species Longa

USES ANDNOTESSee Turmeric

ERYTHROSINE

SOURCE/COLORErythrosine brown

USES ANDNOTES Brown powder forming cherry red solution in water. It is employedforcoloring foods.

GUANINE

SOURCE/COLORGuanine iridescent

USES ANDNOTES A crystalline substance obtained from fish scales consisting oftwopurines guanine and hypoxanthine. The colorant content of guanine isabout 7597% while that of hypoxanthine is about 3 25% depending on fish typeand respectivetissue. Fishes providing this material include herrings alewives andmenhades.

The materialis not a colorant but a pearly white silvery iridescent employed inlipsticks nailpolishes and eye makeup.

HUCKLEBERRY

SOURCE/COLORHuckleberry black red

BOTANICAL FamilyEricaceae Genus Gaylussacia Species Baccata

USES ANDNOTES American shrubs related to the blueberries and bearing ediblefruits

INDIGOTIN

SOURCE/COLORIndigotin indigo blue

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae Genus Indigofera Species Indigo

USES ANDNOTES A tropical plant growing mostly in Bengal Java and Guatemala.Indigotinis a dark blue crystalline powder with coppery luster. It is insolublein wateralcohol and ether and soluble in chloroform glacial acetic acid andnitrobenzene.

Indigotin isalso produced synthetically from aniline and chloroacetic acid. Theresultantphenyl glycine is further fused with alkali and sodium amide.

KINO

SOURCE/COLORKino red

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae Genus Pterocarpus Species Marsupium

USES ANDNOTES Kino is a plant which grows in western Africa East India and SriLanka.It is used as an astringent.

MALLOW FLOWERS

BOTANICAL FamilyMalvaceae Genus Malva Arborea Species Silvestris. Rotundifolia

USES ADNOTES It is used mostly in coloring vinegar and food products.

PAPRIKA

SOURCE/COLORPaprika and paprikaoleoresins red

BOTANICAL FamilySolanaceae GenusCapsicum Species Tetragonum

USES AND NOTESPaprika has abrighter red color and a sweeter taste than the red cayenne pepper.Bothpaprika and its oleoresin have a good tinctorial capacity in producingorangeto bright red color.

PERNAMBUCO

SOURCE/COLORPernambuco wood red

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae GenusCaesalpina Species Echinata

USES AND NOTES Awood from Lima Peruand Nicaragua used as a dye.

POKEBERRY

SOURCE/COLORPokeberry red orpockeweed

BOTANICAL FamilyPhytolaccaceae GenusPhytolaceae Species Americana

USES AND NOTESThe pokeweed planthas dark purple juicy berries and white flowers. Its roots arepoisonous.

SAFFLOWER

SOURCE/COLORSafflower yellow

BOTANICAL FamilyCompositae GenusCarthamus Species Tinctorius

USES AND NOTESAn edible drying oilis obtained from the seeds of this herb which has orange or redflowers. Thecolor is prepared from the flower s heads.

SAFFRON

SOURCE/COLORSaffron yellow

BOTANICAL Familylridaceae Genus CrocusSpecies Sativus

USES AND NOTESSaffron has a sweetscent and taste. It is a brilliant yellow dye. Four thousand flowers ofsaffronmake about one ounce of commercial saffron which is used in flavoringandcoloring candy and in cooking.

SANDALWOOD

SOURCE COLORSandalwood red

BOTANICAL FamilySantalaceae GenusSantalum Species Album

USES AND NOTES Akind of scentedwood from a tropical tree the sandalwood oil is pressed out and usedforperfume cosmetics and medicine

TARTRAZINE

SOURCE/COLORTartrazine yellow 5

USES AND NOTES Abright orangeyellow powder. It is employed as a color additive in foods drugs andcosmetics.It is freely soluble in water.

Stabilizers aresubstances which are added to anothersubstance to prevent or retard any alteration. Those utilized incompoundingflavors and perfumes are of vegetal origin occurring as natural gums.

Gums occur asexudations from various trees and shrubs intropical areas. They differ from natural resins in their chemicalcompositionand solubility properties. Some contain acidic components while othersareneutral. Their main use is as protective colloids and emulsifyingagents infood products andpharmaceuticals as sizing agents for textiles and intheelectrolytic deposition of metals. They are insoluble in alcohol andothersolvents but are generally soluble or dispersible in water.

Seaweeds of coldwater especially brown algae are also usedas stabilizers.

AGARAGAR

BOTANICAL FamilyRhodophyceae Genus Gelidium Gracilaria GigartinaSpecies Corneum Lichenoides Speciosa

DERIVATION Agaris a dried gelatinous substance obtained byconcentration and decoction of seaweeds or marine algae.

Derived from redalgae mostly from the Gelidium and Gracilariathey occur in tropical Asia and along the Pacific coast ofthe U.S. Thereare four kinds of algae brown red green and blue green. Blue greenalgae aretoxic to fish and other aquatic life. Algae range in size from singlecell togiant (over 200 ft) and include many kinds of seaweeds.

Algae areemployed as food supplements soil conditioners animalfeeds and as a source of iodine.

PROPERTIES Agaragar is translucent or pale powder. It isstrongly hydrophilic absorbing 20 times more than its weight of coldwater andforming hard gel at about 40C

USES Agar agaris used in confectionery meat and poultry dessertsbeverages ice cream foods laxatives pharmaceuticals dental impressionslaboratoryreagents photographic emulsions.

ARABICGUM

SYNONYMS Acaciagum

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae Genus Acacia Species Senegal

DERIVATIONExudes from the stems of Acacia Senegal andother related species

PROPERTIES Thinflakes powder or granules white or yellowish almostodorless with a mucilaginous taste soluble in water yielding a viscoussolutioninsoluble in alcohol

USES Arabic gumis used in food preparation as a thickeningagent and colloidal stabilizer adhesive for multipurpose use in textileprintingink pharmaceuticals and cosmetics

BEANGUMS LOCUST

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae Genus Robinia (black) SpeciesPseudoacacia Kelseyi Neomexican (New Mexico) Viscosa(clammy)

DERIVATION Fromthe long locust pods which are filled withwax coated seeds

PROPERTIES Itswells in cold water with increasing viscosityon heating insoluble in organic solvents

USES Foodstabilizer thickener emulsifier cosmetics sizingand finishes for textiles pharmaceuticals paints.

CARRAGEEN

SYNONYMS Irishmoss

BOTANICAL FamilyGigartinaceae Genus Chondrus Species Crispus

DERIVATIONExtracted from a phycocolloid (algae)called carrageen or Irish moss in the red algae (Chondrus andseveralspecies). Growing in rocky places off Great Britain Ireland east coast ofsouthern Canada New England and southern New Jersey.

PROPERTIES It ishydrophilic and readily absorbs water

USES Emulsifierin food products especially chocolate milk toothpastescosmetics pharmaceuticals

GUARGUM

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosaeGenus Cyamopsis Species Tetragonoloba

DERIVATION Fromthe Cyamopsistetragonoloba cultivated in Pakistan for live­ stock feeding.

The watersoluble part of theflowers (85%) is called guaran Âwhichconsists of 35% galactose and 63% mannose.

PROPERTIES Whiteor yellowishpowder. It is soluble in water with a thickening power 5 8 timesgreater thanstarch.

USES The seedscontain achemical compound called mannolagactan used in foods cosmeticspharmaceuticals thickeneremulsifier paper manufacture.

KARAYA GUM

SYNONYMSSterculia gum Indiantragacanth

BOTANICAL FamilySterculiaceaeGenus Sterculia Species Urens

DERIVATIONExudes from Indiantrees of the genus Sterculia

PROPERTIES Whiteto darkbrown or black. Its viscosity decreases over six months storage. Itforms atranslucent colloidal gel in water.

USES Ice creamand other foodproducts adhesives thickener emulsifier tooth­ pastes.

PECTIN

ÂdescriptionFrom pektos a Greek word meaning congealed. Pectin is asubstance foundin many fruits and vegetables which yield pectin when boiled. It is awhiteamorphous carbohydrate substance that forms a gelatinous mass in thecooking offruits or vegetables causing gelation.

ExtractionExtractionMethod from Juice (1) Use filteredclear juice (2) Add double volume ofalcohol 95% (3) Precipitate in a gelatinous mass (4) Filter throughlinen orcanvas (5) Press (6) Dry (7) Dissolve in distilled water (8) Filterseveraltimes (9) Add hydrochloric acid (10) Precipitate again with alcohol 95%.

Extraction fromDry Peels ofFruits (1) Use rawshredded or dry stored peels (2) Add distilledwater (3) Boil in a stainless steel vessel (4) Add diluted hydrochloricacid orsulfuric acid (5) Heat at 93 100 C for one hour (6) Yields watersolublepectin.

Pectin AcidExtraction (1) Use ripefruit washed with a sodium hydroxide solution (2) Dry (3) Wash withisopropylalcohol (4) Dry (5) Add hydrogen chloride alcoholic solution (10%) (6)Dry (7)Wash again with isopropyl alcohol (8) Dry.

Extraction ofPectin from Lemon Fruit (1) Uselemon rinds boiing in several changes of alcohol (2) Heat in anautoclave forone hour at 110C in presence of distilled water (3) Filter (4)Precipitateusing double doubel volume of acidified alcohol (5) Remove acidity bywashingwith alcohol or ether (6) Dry in a vacuum dessicator over sulfuric acid.

Extraction ofPectin from OrangeFruit (1) Boil orangesin a reflux condenser eight times for 20 mineach time (2) Add 6 liters of alcohol 95% (3) Press the mass betweeneachboiling (4) Add 3 liters of distilled water to the final press cake (5)Heatthe mixture in autoclave for one hour at 110C (6) Press (7) Filteruntil clear (8)Add double volume of alcohol 95% with 7 ml of concentrated hydrochloricacidper liter (9) Press the coagulum in a cloth (10) Wash the pectin withether (11)Dry in a vacuum dessicator over sulfuric acid Yield 20% of pectin

Pectin GeneralPreparation (A) (1) Usemass (2) Add hot diluted acid (Cu Al metal satls) at 70 90C (3)Precipitate byadding ethyl or isopropyl alcohol (4) Wash with distiled water toremove themetal (5) Dry (6) Pulverize.

(B) (1) Use mass(2) Add hotdistiled water (acidified) (3) Precipitate by adding Al salts (4) Dryat lowtemperature (5) Pulverize.

(C) (1) Use mass(2) Add water (3Filter (4) Concentrate (5) Precipitate by adding alcohol (6) Recoveralcohol.

(D) (1) Use mass(2 Add diluted acid(3) Dehydrate by evaporation (4) precipitate by adding alcohol oracetone.

TRAGACANTH GUM

SYNONYMS Gumdragon

BOTANICAL FamilyLeguminosae GenusAstragalus Species Gummifer

OCCURRENCESouthwestern Europe GreeceTurkey Iran

DERIVATIONExudes from the stems ofthe Astragalus gummifer and other Astragalusgenus plants­

PROPERTIES Dullwhite translucentplates or yellowish powder. Strongly hydrophilic. It swells in water.Itcontains bassorin pectin and starch.

USESEmulsifying agent thickenerfor food ice cream desserts toothpastes soachips and powders hair wavepreparations adhesives leather dressing textile printing and sizingpharmaceuticalemulsions cigar making.

Â

Notes

Theesters of amyl benzyl butyl methyl and propyl alcohols with aceticanthranilatebutyric capric formic propionic and valeric acids are employed tosimulate thefruit flavors. For example a peach flavor is enhanced by Aldehyde C 14astrawberry flavor by Aldehyde C 16 and a pineapple flavor by ethylbutyrate.All the formulas of these flavors are made with these esters.

Theproportion used for making essences is 2 or 3 volumes (2 or 3 cc perliter ofsolvent) for each completed formula.

Allformulas are alphabetically listed including their ingredients. Theethylalcohol 95% and distilled water are always listed last in each formula.

Ingredientsdenoted by an asterick are formulas which may be found in this book.

Let standfor several days (either 10 8 or 3 depending on the maximum flavor andodordevelopment which can also be obtained by fermentation with theaddition ofsugar in double amount before the addition of alcohol and distilledwater).Stir for 1 h daily.

YieldProportionateto the amount of fruits and doubled ethyl alcohol 95% and distilledwater.

Almond Bitter

A variety of thecommon almond (Prunus amygdalus amara)having bitter kernels that yield a highly poisonous oil. It is used forflavoring only when the prussic acid in it has been totally removed.

Pulverize # 113. Maceratewith sugar and alcohol (#11 14) for 10 days stirring every day for 1 h.Filter.To the residue add double amount of ethyl alcohol 95% and distilledwater. Letstand for another 3 days stirring every day for 1 h. Filter. To theresidue adddouble amount of ethyl alcohol 95% and distilled water. Let stand foranother 3days stirring every day for 1 h. Put altogether and distill.

Dissolvecaffeine in 722 g boiling water. Add 28 g citricacid. Add phosphoric acid syrup. Add glacial acetic acid. Add colatincture.Dissolve vanillin and all the essential oils. Blend all with stirring.Letstand for 48 h stirring four times every 12 h. Let stand for another 48h withoutany agitation. Separate the resins at the bottom. Separate the terpenesat thesurface. Separate the clear middle portion siphoning with a rubbertube. Filterall cloudy parts of the bottom with filter paper. Place the oily upperportionin a narrow small container and siphon off the clear portion. Add tothe otherclear portion and shake well.

Use 35 ml ofthis extract and 15 ml of liquid caramel to makea finished syrup. Prepare a simple syrup by mixing 3 kg of sugar 700mlofdistilled water and 50 ml of this syrup to make a gallon of imitationcolasyrup. Concentration 50 ml/gal.

For each listedproduct separatelydry and cut in very small pieces. Roast slowly and gently stir untileachreaches a brownish color. To the weight of each add 50% ethyl alcohol95% and50% distilled water. Let stand for 1 week stirring every day for 1 h.Filter.Reuse the residue for another three times adding 50% ethyl alcohol 95%and 50%distilled water each time. Combine the extract and filter.

Fondant Orgeat Praline

Fondant A softcreamycompound of sugar water and flavorings usedas a basis for candies or icing.

Organt From the Frenchword orge meaning barley a sweetalmond flavored nonalcoholic syrup used as a cocktail ingredient orfood flavoring.

Praline Generally aconfection of nut kernels especiallyalmonds roasted in boiling sugar until brown and crispy a patty ofcreamy brownsugar and pecan meats.

Glace Cake Mix

(Candied forfruit cakes and desserts encrusted or coated with sugar or baked withsugar orsyrup until translucent).

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